🚀 go-pugleaf

Robert L Bass wrote in message
>What you have was a popular automated lighting system in its day.  The
relay
>boxes are wired to the switch plates. Each load (circuit) has a separate
>relay which can respond to an on and an off signal from the touch plate.
The
>rotating knob selects which relay is to receive a command and the on/off
>button makes the connection. The 24V power supply is located in or next to
>the relay boxes.

I've got a 12 relay panel, relays, and switches from days when I installed
them. Real pain.

The systems are still installed today and GE still manufacturers them. The
relays are RR7 (no pilot light) or RR9 (was RR8 in the 70's & 80's) and
there
are a lot of interfaces available for them that go from 232/485 to the relay
interfaces and return on/off indications.

ACT Solutions sells an RCA replacement for the RR7 and entire interface
solutions.

See RCA G.E. RR7 for the relays...
LCP for a full lighting control panel...
Photon4 or Photon4.1 which is a 4-relay controller, RS485, that can be
daisy-chained to control up to 255 Photon 4's (1020 relays) from a computer.
http://216.233.241.66/icc%5Faccessories.htm

I've looked at it for my house for areas I want *guarenteed* control like
outdoor lighting but haven't done anything yet.

Jay Hogg

panic or alarm
>hook-ups. When the panic button is pressed, the ON command is activated
>while a small motor moves a rotor around, sequentially activating each
>connected load. The visual effect is quite dramatic as lights all around
the
>home come on in rapid sequence.
>
>To activate any specific circuit, you can wire an external relay to
>momentarily connect the 24V trigger to that circuit's relay. If you're
>uncomfortable working with this sort of thing, consider hiring an
>electrician. Try to find some old geaser whose been around long enough to
>know about these systems.
>
>If you want to make lights flash on and off, you might not want to do it
>through the automated load centers. Doing so makes the relays work a lot
>more than they were intended to and replacement parts may prove hard to
get.
>Instead, consider using dedicated, low voltage devices for the purpose.
>
>For fire alarms, it is very important to use only ADA approved / UL listed
>life safety devices. These are readily available online (my store, for
>example) and through local alarm companies. Fire alarm components and
>systems must be wired and installed in accordance with fire / electrical
>code. This is not trivial so do give careful consideration if you are
>inclined to do it yourself.
>
>Regards,
>Robert L Bass
>
>=============================>
>Bass Home Electronics
>The Online DIY Alarm Store
>http://www.Bass-Home.com
>4883 Fallcrest Circle
>Sarasota, FL 34233
>877-722-8900 Sales & Tech Support
>941-925-9747 voice (Florida)
>941-923-6238 fax
>RobertLBass@home.com
>=============================>
>
>"Bowden Wise" <bwise@NYCAP.rr.com> wrote in message
>news:8yM26.66994$7I.7894817@typhoon.nyroc.rr.com...
>> Hi
>>
>> It's a General Electric model, there is no model number.  The house
>> was built in 1965 it looks as if it was part of the original house.
>> There are two switch plates -- one in master bed room, the
>> other near teh garage -- which have 2 dials (one for off, the
>> other for on) with 12 ticks for 12 different rooms.
>>
>> In the garage there are two electrical boxes also General Electric
>> called Remote Control Relay Center... again I can't see a model
>> number or anything... not even sure if these boxes are related
>> to the dial panels.  The boxes say they have 24 volt/60 cycle
>> relays, with branch circuits,
>>
>> hope this helps
>>
>>
>> Claus V. <claus_vader@usa.net> wrote in message
>> news:92fvmv$omj$1@autumn.news.rcn.net...
>>
>> > This is a very frequent question here and there are innumerable ways to
>> help
>> > you to do what you want but the first question is - can you tell us
more
>> > about what's already there?  You said "Lighting Control Panel"  Can you
>> tell
>> > us the controller name, equipment nameplate, model number, instruction
>> > manual description?  Anything you can provide would be helpful. That
way
>> we
>> > can tailor a response that's most appropriate to what you already have
>> (and
>> > therefore most likely the least expensive route).
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>