🚀 go-pugleaf

Rat Information Sheet 
 
Rats as Pets 
Rats are clean, intelligent affectionate animals that bond to their human companions in much 
the same way that dogs do. They make playful, sensitive pets, and can be taught to come by 
name and learn a variety of tricks. Unlike many other rodents, however, rats are a fairly high 
maintenance pet. They need at least an hour's playtime outside their cage every day, and 
because they are much more intelligent than many other small animals, can suffer greatly if not 
given enough attention, free-range time, and environmental stimulation.  If the thought of a pair of 
inquisitive, mischievous rats tearing around your living space causing havoc gives you the 
willies, or if your idea of quality time with your pet is watching it mooch around its cage, you 
should consider a less active, lower-maintenance rodent. Both male (bucks) and female (does) 
rats can be destructive if left unsupervised for long periods of time: make sure that you know 
where your rats are while they roam free range, and rat-proof any room that they are let loose in 
(i.e. cover electric cords with rubber aquarium tubing, hide anything that you don't want chewed, 
etc.). 
 
  
Does and Bucks 
Both male and female rats make great companion animals. Does are smaller, more lithe and 
more active than bucks. Their coat is smoother and they have almost no discernible smell. They 
are often more curious and energetic than males, but equally affectionate. Does rarely scent-
mark territory, but are often avid chewers and will reduce any loose fabric (like a t-shirt) left in 
their way to shreds in a matter of minutes.  Bucks are larger and more laid back than does. 
Their coat is coarser and has a slight musky smell to it. While they are as affectionate as does, 
they are much lazier, and when left free-range will often curl up in a corner or on your lap. They 
do scent mark almost everything that they run into -- including their human companions, but this 
is not as disgusting as it sounds as the 'scent' is only a few drops and does not smell as strong 
as their urine. Males can also be quite destructive, but whereas does specialise in fabric 
destruction, bucks are masters at chewing through solid items: chairs, carpets, shelves etc.  
The best way to minimise damage to your house is to supervise your animals'  out-of-cage play-
time. Very rarely, a male will become overly aggressive around the age of four months when his 
hormones kick in: if this happens, the animal can be neutered and his hormonal levels will return 
to normal. If you must have a buck neutered, make sure that you use a vet who has done this 
operation on rats before: rats have an internal muscular structure unlike that of dogs and cats, 
and a different procedure must be used. 
 
 
Rats Need Company 
Rats are highly intelligent, social animals, and although they enjoy the companionship of 
humans, they thrive in the company of their own species. Keeping a rat on it's own is analogous 
to condemning a human being to solitary confinement: most will survive, but few will flourish or 
be truly happy. One fear expressed by potential rat-owners is that if they get more than one rat, 
the animals will bond together and be less tame as a result. Actually, the opposite is often the 
case, as solitary rats can easily become clingy, introverted and neurotic.  Rats kept in pairs or 
groups are generally more confident, and no more difficult to tame. In fact, there is no valid 
argument for keeping rats alone: two rats are as easy to look after as one, a cage that is big 
enough for one rat is big enough for two, two rats are much happier and live longer than single 
rats -- and they're many times more interesting to watch!! 
 
Housing 
Wire cages are by far the best housing for rats. In addition to good ventilation they are a ready-
made rat climbing-frame, and can be easily converted into a rat adventure playground with a 
little imaginative use of ropes, ladders, tree branches, shelves, hammocks, and flowerpots 
attached to the sides. A minimum sized cage for two rats is 2' x 18" x 18". Fer-plast do an 
excellent reasonably priced bird-cage called a Sonia (approx. 2' x 2.6' x 20") that retails from 
between �48 - 65 stlg., depending on the shop. LOOT and other used-ads papers are also good 
places to find cheap cages. A Hamster cage, no matter how 'large' is not suitable for adult rats: 
even the three-story 'hamster-palaces' do not have enough floor space or climbing opportunities. 
Some wire cages made especially for ferrets, chinchillas, or laboratory use, have wire floors with 
a pan below to catch droppings. Do not be tempted by the ease with which these can be 
cleaned, nor by their elimination of the need for a 'litter' for the floor: wire cages can, and often 
do, cause a painful and incurable condition called bumblefoot in rats. Bumblefoot, a severe 
irritation and swelling of the hocks, makes it painful and difficult for rats to walk, and cannot be 
cured. If you do buy a cage with a wire floor, remove the wire floor and set the cage in the litter 
tray. Wire shelves can (and should) be easily covered with off-cuts of linoleum. 
An aquarium can be a sound second option if, for some reason, a cage is not suitable or 
available. Aquariums offer less climbing opportunities, but this can be overcome with a little 
imagination and the use of some of the items listed above. Aquariums can also have poor 
ventilation, so it is important to make sure that the lid allows plenty of air to circulate (a fan 
close to the tank may help in summer), and that the tank is kept scrupulously clean: Ammonia 
build-up from urine can irritate rats respiratory tracts. Aquariums do have the advantage of 
keeping the rats bedding, food etc. in their home and away from your furniture and carpets, and 
they provide a measure of security for rats who live in cat-owning households (although make 
sure that the lid is cat-proof!!). 
A halfway house between an aquarium and a wire cage is the Fer-plast Duna, a large (approx. 
2.5' x 19" x 23") plastic tank with a sliding wire top. While the Duna offers limited climbing 
opportunities, it has the benefit of good ventilation, and being extremely easy to clean (it can be 
taken apart).  Fer-Plast do a whole series of cages similar to the Duna, some of which have 
raised wire portions on top which could provide some climbing opportunities. 
 
Litter and Bedding 
Recent studies on various species have shown that aromatic wood shavings -- the type usually 
found in your local pet shop -- are responsible for serious liver damage and respiratory tract 
infection, most notably in rodents. Unfortunately, there are not many options to wood shavings 
in the UK at the moment, but there are two products that are worth keeping an eye out for: 
Bio-Catolet (tm) -- pellets of recycled paper. Sterile and dust-free, this litter is many times more 
absorbent than wood-shavings, and is much better at controlling odour. Although on a Kg to Kg. 
basis it is more expensive than wood shavings, Bio-Catolet is far more efficient: you use  much 
less and change it less often than wood (for example, once  rather than twice weekly for a cage 
of two females). Because of it's efficiency Bio-Catolet  is good value for money. It can be found 
in large branches of ASDA, Sainsburys, and Tescos Nationwide, or telephone the distributor 
Jenks at (01492) 442446 to find your nearest stockist. 
CareFRESH (tm) -- currently being imported from the US, and made of recycled non-aromatic 
wood pulp. Dust-free and sanitised, it has good green credentials but is less absorbent and 
odour-eating than Bio-Catolet. Some (human) users have complained that they don't like the 
smell, others rave about how mess-free it is. Phone Absorption Europe at 0171-272-7720. 
In a pinch, shredded paper-towels can be a safe stop-gap until you buy more litter. Normal Cat 
litter -- even the dust-free kind -- is not appropriate for rats: the dust and clay can be hazardous 
to their health. Straw is not recommended as a bedding as it can harbour mites, does little to 
absorb liquid or eliminate odour, and has been known to puncture  rats' eyes. 
 
Food 
Despite what the friendly bloke down at your local pet super-store may tell you, hamster, gerbil 
or rabbit food are not appropriate for rats, although they can be a useful supplement to a rat's 
diet. Like people, rats fare best on fresh wholesome foods: brown rice, vegetables, grains 
(wheat, barley, oats, millet, but not maize), whole meal bread, etc. High protein puppy food is 
useful as a supplement to help build up young rats (up to 10-12 weeks), and normal to low 
protein dry dog food is a good component of a healthy diet. Ideally, an adult rat should  be fed 
some whole-grains, some vegetables, and some protein (dog food or meal worms) every day.  
This can be supplemented with a bowl of 'rodent mix' as a snack food. Bear in mind that dietary 
fat has been linked to tumours in rats, and keep fatty foods like peanuts and sunflower seeds as 
treats.  Debbie Ducommon has devised an excellent recipe for rat health food that appears to 
boost immune reaction and general health,  see the Rat Fan Club (below) for details.  
 
Grooming 
Rats are extremely clean creatures, and spend almost a third of their waking life grooming. As 
such, it is rarely necessary to bathe rats, with the exception of light-coated varieties which may 
need the occasional 'stain-removal' session if you wish to show them. If you decide that your rat 
needs bathing, make sure that you use a shampoo formulated for animals -- a kitten or puppy 
shampoo is best -- as human shampoo can irritate their skin.  
Some rat owners like to have their pets' nails trimmed regularly. This can be quite difficult and I 
would advise you to visit a vet or experienced rat owner  -- a show can be a great opportunity for 
this -- and have them show you how to do it. Stypyic powder (anti-bleeding) is a useful thing to 
keep on hand if you intend to cut your rats' nails as accidentally nicking the vein inside the nail 
can cause serious blood loss.  
 
Health Problems 
The full range of health problem that your rat may encounter during it's lifetime clearly can not 
be addressed in a leaflet of this length, and what follows should by no means be considered a 
substitute for veterinary care. A good veterinarian who is experienced in dealing with rats is 
invaluable,  and it is a good idea to find one before a potential problem arises.  Please see 
notes at the end of this document for the addresses of vets that I have used and personally 
recommend. The National Fancy Rat Society (see details below) also keeps a register of 
recommended vets all over the country. Veterinary care for rats need not be expensive -- I have 
been charged between �6-8 per visit at various clinics, and often two rats can be included in the 
cost of one consultation. If one of your rats appears to be unwell a vet should be consulted as 
soon as possible: although rats are hardy little creatures, they can go into decline very quickly, 
and by putting off seeing a vet you may be greatly minimising their chances of survival. 
A few common symptoms of rat-ailments are: 
Red Discharge Around the Eyes and/or Nose: Not an ailment in itself, but a symptom of 
distress. Rats' mucus is stained red with a pigment called porphyrin (indeed, it is often referred 
to as porphyrin). Porphyrin may be present if your rat is ill or simply stressed (as, for example, 
from moving house). Observe the animal carefully, and if it appears unwell consult a vet. 
General Signs of Illness: the animal is hunched up, coat staring (fluffed up and messy). Eyes 
may be half closed and breathing may appear laboured. Consult a vet. 
Sneezing: Often the sign of a respiratory infection. All rats carry mycoplasma baccilus (a 
respiratory tract infection) as a primary infection in much the same way as we carry the 
common cold. Like human colds, Mycoplasma is only able to be active when the immune 
system is weakened, often by a secondary infection. Although sneezing is not necessarily a 
sign of serious illness (most rats sneeze at some point in their lives), a rat that is seen to 
sneeze should be observed for any other sign of illness. If your rat's breathing appears laboured, 
wheezy, or has a rattley sound, consult a vet immediately. When treated early mycoplasma can 
often be kept at bay with a strong course of antibiotics (rats should continue to be given 
antibiotic for at least seven days after all symptoms of respiratory infection have disappeared, 
otherwise the infection is likely to reappear in a  stronger, antibiotic-resistant form). If left 
untreated, Mycoplasma can infiltrate and damage the central nervous system, resulting in fits, 
paralysis, and death. If the rat is being kept on wood-chips sneezing may be the result of 
irritation of the respiratory tract from dust and phenol oils. 
Wheezing / Noisy  Breathing: see above. 
 
The Rat Health Care booklet written by Debbie Ducommon of the US-based "Rat Fan Club" (see 
below) is a useful guide for rat-owners. The booklet discusses many aspects of rat care ranging 
from diet and housing to medication and grooming. Although by no means he last word on rat 
health care, the Rat Health Care booklet is an invaluable resource. The NFRS has imported 
some copies, which can be bought for around �4 stlg., or you can contact Debbie Ducommon at 
the address below. 
 
 
Books About Rats 
Although there are several books about rats in print at the moment, none provides a satisfactory 
all-round guide to keeping rats as pets, and several are desperately inaccurate: in particular 
avoid Rats by Carol A. Himsel (Barron's) and Rats by Susan Fox (TFH). The Proper Care Of 
Fancy Rats by Nick Mays (TFH, ISBN 0-86622-933-X) is the best of the lot, with descriptions of 
the various types of rat within the British rat fancy, and scores of colour photographs. The 
'Health' section should be given a miss, however, as it is outdated and largely inaccurate. 
The NFRS Handbook is worth owning -- it contains some basic information about health, colour 
and coat types, genetics etc. A new edition is currently in preparation. In the meanwhile, copies 
of the old edition can be obtained from the NFRS (�3.50 NFRS members, �4.50 others). 
 
Other Places to Find Information about Rats: 
There is a wealth of rat-related information on the internet. The best way to find WWW pages 
containing ratty information is to use a search-engine (like 'Yahoo' or 'Infoseek') and type in the 
word "rat" or "rats". "Mitch's Rat Page" (http://metro.turnpike.net/mitch/rats.htm) has links to 
dozens of other rat pages, so might be a good place to begin a search. 
The Rats Mailing List is an e-mail discussion group that provides a forum for the members of the 
list to discuss all manner of thing pertaining to rat care and ownership. Although some serious 
matters about health and husbandry are discussed, the majority of the 30-50 daily postings that 
you will receive from the list if you subscribe, will be anecdotal stories about 'cute' or amusing 
things that members of the list's pet rats have done. The Rats List is great for those who enjoy 
chatting about the joys of rat ownership. To subscribe send an e-mail (with the subject line 
blank) to Majordomo@starry.stanford.edu with the message 'Subscribe Rats' . If you would 
rather receive the list in digest form (30 or so messages sent daily in one long e-mail) send the 
message 'subscribe rats-digest'. 
rec.pets and alt.pets.rodents on usenet are two newsgroups that have a lot of rat-related 
postings, although bear in mind that you shouldn't believe everything you read, and that although 
some of the posters may have a lot of knowledge and experience, many of the 'experts' are pet 
owners like yourself. It is best not to rely on information gained from newsgroups, mailing lists 
or other internet resources unless you are sure that the source is knowledgeable and 
trustworthy. If in doubt contact your vet or an experienced rat-owner with your query.    
 
Rat Clubs 
An application form for the National Fancy Rat Society (UK) and an introductory issue of the US  
Rat Fan Club should be attached to this fact sheet, and I would recommend joining both. the 
NFRS will keep you in touch with rat owners and the rat fancy across the UK with it's journal 
Pro-Rata. The NFRS also runs a kitten register (for selling or finding rat-kittens) and has a 
register of recommended rat-friendly vets. The Californian Rat Fan Club is aimed entirely at pet 
owners and its' monthly newsletter  The Rat Report  contains a wealth of information about 
health, diet, games to play with your rats, toys to make them, and so on. The Rat and Mouse 
Club of America publishes a bi-monthly glossy magazine, the Rat and Mouse Gazette. The 
London and Southern Counties Mouse and Rat Club holds a Rat and Mouse show on the first 
Saturday of most months at the Fourth Enfield Scout HQ, Gordon Road, Enfield, London 
(nearest tube: Enfield Town).  
 
The National Fancy Rat Society 
Membership Co-ordinator 
4 Mayfair Court, Barnshall Avenue 
Colchester,  Essex    C02 8TH 
 
London and Southern Counties Mouse and Rat Club 
Albert Collins 
7 Rowley Gardens, Cheshunt 
Hertfordshire EN8 0SR 
(for show details; ordinarily you can join the club on the day of a show) 
 
The Rat Fan Club 
857 Lindo Lane 
Chico, CA  95973 
USA 
e-mail: ratlady@pinsight.com 
 
Rat and Mouse Club of America 
13075 Srpingdale Street #302 
Westminster CA 92683 USA 
e-mail: RMCA1@aol.com 
 
 
 
 
Recommended Veterinarians 
 
Heron Veterinary Surgery 
101 Central Road 
Mordon, Surrey SM4 5SQ 
(0181) 640-2064 
Mr. M. H. Treherne 
 
 
Ms. Jillian Pearson 
89a Cherry Hinton Road 
Cambridge 
(01223) 249331 
(n.b. Ms. Pearson specialises in rodents and has a soft spot for rats. Unfortunately she only 
holds surgeries on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 4:30-6:30 PM as she teaches at the 
Veterinary School at the University of Cambridge. The practice has another vet with a special 
interest in rodents, a Ms.Helen Kemp, whom I have not met but who was highly recommended 
by Ms. Pearson). 
 
Also check with the National Fancy Rat Society for a recommended vet near you. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Leaflet by A. Swierzy (C) 1996 
atms2@cam.ac.uk