🚀 go-pugleaf

| >mpd@anomaly.sbs.com (Michael P. Deignan) writes:
| >>Well, you need to take off the outer casing, and lube the internal
| >>components. Especially the platters themselves, since you don't want
| >>the read/write head scraping against the platter.
| >>>is motor oil fine?
| >>I find that Quaker State 10W-30 works best.

| gwoho@nntp-server.caltech.edu (g liu) writes:
| >i tried removing the casing and squirting motor oil on the platters and
| >other parts...
| >the problem i have now is that the drive does not seem to work right
| >anymore...


Silly people -- the March Hare and the Mad Hatter tried this approach
with a timepiece and it didn't work, even though they used *the very
best* butter!

All those moving parts are the technology of a past generation anyway.
What you want is a Solid-State drive!  Fortunately, you can convert
your drive to solid-state quite cheaply.

Just mix up about 100 cc's of epoxy (the two-part kind) and apply it
liberally to the ends of the shaft (runs through that shiny frisbee-
shaped thing) and the read-write head armature (the hand-like thing that
grabs at the frisbee disc).  Apply all excess epoxy to anything that
looks like it might move.  Give it 24 hours to set up, and you'll have
a solid-state (very) hard disk drive!  Just as solid state as those
RAM drives, and you don't need any software!