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Started by Joseph A. Watters
Mon, 03 Aug 1992 22:01
Review: Macaroni Grill
Author: Joseph A. Watters
Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1992 22:01
Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1992 22:01
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3941 bytes
A review of the Romano's Macaroni Grill on Westheimer, between Bering and Augusta. Macaroni Grill is a relatively large place with Italian kitsch on the walls and in corners. It is a chain outfit, I know there are locations in Dallas, and it has that chain feel to it. You know, you could go to any location and have a hard time distinguishing amongst them from the decor. Macaroni's main gimmick is that when you ask for wine, they bring you a big jug of house labeled wine, and you pour your own on the honor system, telling your waiter how many glasses you have drunk when the meal is over. My conclusion after having eaten there twice (once in Houston, once in Dallas, both times the place was selected by someone else) is that everything about the place is palatable, but unremarkable: the wine, the food, the service, the decor. I could see this outfit doing real well in some suburban areas. The red wine was not-too-sweet, not-too-tannic jug wine. Mediocre, but drinkable. That's okay though, because in that respect it matches the food. My wife and I each had a pizza. They were baked in a wood oven, and unfortunately, tasted *too* much like that. I don't know, maybe we got some small pieces of charred wood in the pizza. The pizzas were ostensibly neapolitan style, with little or no tomato sauce. I had the grilled vegetable pizza and Debby had the spinach and prosciutto pizza. Their idea of grilled vegetables was some yellow onions, mushrooms, and red and green bell peppers. The pizza was mostly crust and cheese though. Bland, except for the burned wood taste. The spinach and prosciutto pizza was equally unremarkable. Some others at the table had ordered a penne pasta dish. The pasta was also adequate, but unremarkable, and the pasta itself was much more prevalent than the other ingredients in the dish. This is fine, and probably closer to the proportions that the Italians eat, but since the other stuff in the dish was not very flavorful or interesting, the whole effect was ho-hum. My wife had a side house salad with a "chianti dressing". This sounded interesting, but it appears that the chianti they used was much closer to vinegar than wine. The salad was so astringent that she left most of it on the plate. The service was acceptable except for a few annoyances. The server offered to grate some Parmesan cheese for each diner. He used a flat grater and a large chunk of cheese, instead of a Mouli grater or a bowl of recently grated cheese. As a consequence, he had to lean over each diner and do some relatively large arm motions to grate the cheese. We all had to lean out of the way to avoid being hit in the face by the guy's elbow as he grated. One of the people in the groupo had difficulty ordering a drink because she asked for a "Coca-Cola". It took the waiter about three tries to understand her, because as he said, he was used to people ordering a "Coke". He then forgot to bring it to her, and wandered by at some point and asked her if she wanted something to drink. She repeated her order and he dashed off to get it. The prices were moderate: $6-9 for entrees, about $3-5 for appetizers, wine was $2.50 a glass. Since I can pay about those prices or only slightly more for much better food at Grotto, Cent'anni, Carrabba's, Sfuzzi, etc., I think I'll stick to those places, given the choice. -- Joseph A. Watters, Jr. jaw@owlnet.rice.edu Rice University Houston, Texas
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