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Article #112

Citrus review

#112
From: Pieter Hazewindus
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1992 20:15
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By popular demand, a review of Citrus.

As an appetizer I had the shiitake mushrooms and garlic napoleon.  The
layered puff pastry is a five-inch high tower, which melts on your
tongue.  It was _very_ L.A.  We just had to take a picture of it.  Of
the other appetizers, the big shrimp is worth trying.

The lamb chops entree I had was good, but not a real success.  It's not
that hard to make lamb tasty (just don't use mint), but this dish was
uninspired.  Your typical nouvelle lamb, I suppose.  The others had
mostly salmon and tuna.  The fish was fresh, and cooked just right.  Of
course, not all fish entrees are not available every day.  The
presentation on the plate is exquisite.

For dessert, all but one had the crunchy Napoleon.  This is hard to
describe.  It's puff pastry with baker's cream and caramelized goo.
Wonderful.  Try it.  The one other person had a mixed fruit tart.  He
didn't eat very much of it, since he had to share it with the rest of
us, but it was quite delicious.

Service was remarkably good.  We arrived a little early, but we were
seated right away (when was the last time that happened in a trendy
place in L.A. on a Saturday night?) The waiter was attentive without
being obsequious, and made a few good suggestions (including what not
to take).

The cuisine is nouvelle-inspired, but does not seem to be overly
caloric.  It's not really California cuisine either.  Who cares.  It's
good.  The entrees are in the $22 to $27 range, so count on about $50
per person, excluding wine.  They have a good wine list.

A final warning:  Citrus is loud.  Not as loud as Chinois on Main (and
not as cramped) or the Border Grill, but still loud enough to interfere
with a conversation.  Most tables are under beach umbrellas, which
might lessen the noise a little.  Still, it would be very easy to
redecorate to bring the noise level down.  But loud is in in this
town.

Citrus is located on Melrose at Citrus, just east of La Brea.

Pieter Hazewindus                               pieter@cs.caltech.edu
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From: pieter@cs.caltech.edu (Pieter Hazewindus)
Subject: Citrus review
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Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 20:15:12 GMT
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