🚀 go-pugleaf

Olive, 119 S. Fairfax, (213) 939-2001

This place used to be so trendy that they didn't even
have a listed phone number; you just had to know it.
Popular with the see-and-be-seen crowd is not necessarily
a food endorsement, but the LA Times seemed to think the
cuisine was innovative, so I was game when Olive was
suggested to me.  (I really wanted to go to Patina, where
I haven't been yet, but my dinner partner nominated Olive.)
The Times also said that it can dark, crowded and smoky, so I
made a 7:30 reservation to combat those problems.

When I arrived, the place was pretty empty (and smokefree), and
it seemed that they had just opened.  I chatted with the host,
bartender and waiter for a while, who were quite friendly.  The
host asked me if I was waiting for a man or woman, and said he
would seat me in the middle of the restaurant if it were a
woman, and in a booth, if it were a man, which I found
interesting information.  I got the booth.

Olive has no sign, no windows and a very secure looking door.
It almost has the air of a wanna-be prohibition speakeasy.
Both the dining and bar areas are small, though the booth was
comfortable.  I found the service quite friendly, but I have
noticed this is another side effect of eating early, the
waiters are unhurried and energetic.

The menu was definitely varied, everything from a plate of
sandwiches to steak, and had quite a few vegetarian selections.
To start with, I ordered the carrot-ginger soup.  The waiter
warned me that the ginger flavor was strong, but I eat the
marinated ginger that comes with sushi as if it were a vegetable
side dish, so I said I could take it.  D. decided on the falafel
salad.  There were some standard rolls on the table in the meantime.

The soup was as advertised, but didn't work for me.  It has the
consistency and density of flavor of a sauce, rather than a soup.
After four tablespoons, you felt that you had had enough,
regardless of how hungry you might be.  I would give it a "nice
try, but try again."  D's salad was a pancake-like layer of
falafel, on top of a bed of tabouli, and topped with tomatoes.
I liked it more than I expected, especially the little fresh
flavor of mint that came from somewhere.  A nice little idea.

For an entree, I ordered the grilled ahi tuna, and never looked
back.  It was the best tuna dish I have ever experienced (which is
saying quite a bit, considering the pepper ahi tuna at Shiro).
The tuna was just seared, in a delicious green sauce that I could
kill myself for not remembering, and came with vegetables and
black beans.  It was simply perfect tuna, and I am tempted to
add, may I live to see another.  The presentation was equally
spectacular, spears of tuna holding a lattice of paper-thin
potatoes, though which pokes asparagus spears.  ORDER THIS DISH.

D. had a sort of Indian sampler plate, with basmati rice (quite
good), various papadum, and bit of eggplant (also quite good),
tomato chutney, and other little bits of things I don't recall.
It was pleasant, without being outstanding, and paled beside
the fish.

For dessert, I made the mistake of ordering the chocolate
banana creme brulee.  I know I should have been deterred by the
name alone, but the idea of combining chocolate and creme brulee,
both of which I adore, was too much for me to pass up.  The
creme brulee was over-cooked (it should be slightly runny, not
rock hard), too dominated by banana flavor, and the promised
chocolate proved elusive.  Thumbs down.  D had coffee ice cream
with shaved espresso chips, which was fine, but not memorable.
(For Pasadena residents, I suggest heading to the Old Town
Bakery for dessert instead.  The lemon hazelnut meringue cake
blew me away.)

Dinner for two as described above, food only, $60.
Bottom line:  be lucky, and you can hit a winning dish,
              but you play at your own risk.

Karen Zukor
devoted foodie
e-mail:   zukor@logos.jpl.nasa.gov