🚀 go-pugleaf

In article <MARCEL.94Sep2095506@blasphemous.ictv.com>,
Marcel Burlet <marcel@ictv.com> wrote:

>Since we live "in the country" by California standards (well, _not_
>city water; septic system _not_ sewer; Electricty doesn't run all day,
>every day), we are looking for a backup generator. (The thought of
>waiting 2 or 3 days to 

>1st criteria:
>	Gotta run the water pressure booster pump (1 hp, start
>	capacitor, 220V @ 15A breakers). My well guy says 3500watts
>	min, I'm thinking 5kw. ( we have a 5000 gal tank: we don't
>	need to run the well pump and the pressure pump at the same
>	time).

1 hp is approximately 7.5 amps at 220V, steady state.  Double that for
starting.  3500 watts (KVA) should be enough.  Unless you want to run some
lights or a coffee maker, too.

>2nd criteria:
>	RELIABLE! (Since the power hardly ever goes out when the sun is
>	shining on a warm and dry day).  I don't want to be out in the
>	rain swearing at the *#)($&@ generator, just so I can take a
>	warm shower. 

Get a name brand, and be sure to RUN IT at LEAST twice a month.  Automatic
generator systems typically exercise for 20 minutes once a week.

>Other criteria:
>	Should run on gasoline. Propane is available, but plumbing it
>	could be a problem.  I have no experience with diesel, but
>	that might be doable.

Bad choice.  Gasoline doesn't keep well.  However, for a 3500 watt generator
it may be a reasonable choice if you use stabilizer, run the generator, and
don't try to store too much gas (that doesn't get used) at home.

>	Noise is not a big deal: it's going to be out back, away from
>	the rest of the house. Quieter is nicer, but if it's REALLY
>	LOUD, we'll just put it near this neighbor that .... :-)

Most new generators are very quiet.

>	Should not cost more than my last new car! (that 20kv WINCO in
>	the paper was tempting, but my wife started saying "I don't
>	think so, Tim"!).

Used generators are sometimes available.

>	We will look into some sort of switchover/isolation relay
>	stuff, but we'll go manual for right now. How should I connect
>	this thing?

For a permanently wired generator, the requirement is that a DPDT transfer
switch be installed between the breaker and the load, so that there is
absolutely NO possibility that you might back feed the power into PG&E's
lines while they are being repaired.  The switch must be able to switch the
full current of the circuit (as dictated by the breaker).  For my house,
which has a 15 KVA generator, the switch can handle 200 amps, as it is
right after the house main breaker.

>Questions:
>	What brands are recommended? (Honda is good: Honda is
>	expen$ive).

Kawasaki is also good for small generators.
My big generator (which is plumbed to propane) is a Generac.  It is rated
to run 24 hours a day for months at a time.  The longest single run to date
has been 36 hours.

>	What brands to avoid?
>	
>	I'm certain that Honda engines are good, but why do some
>	brands (e.g. generac, coleman, ...) cost so much less?? 

The gas engines are made in an unnamed asian country.

>	What features to look for? (e.g. How do I determine that the
>	generator will do a good job at maintaing voltage, put out
>	good 60hz, ...).

The stability of the generator is primarily determined by how close you are
running it to the limit.  A bigger generator will be more stable.

>Thanks much in advance

Marc Kaufman