Thread View: net.auto.tech
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4 total messages
Started by K.DELBENE
Tue, 29 Oct 1985 14:03
Proper Needle Sizes for SU HS-4 Carbs. on Detoxed MGB et. al.
Author: K.DELBENE
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1985 14:03
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1985 14:03
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A year or so ago, I detoxed my '79 MGB, removing the catlytic converter and Zenith carb in favor of dual SU HS-4s and a stainless exaust system. Not wanting to go overboard, I left then valve train in tact. Well, last night I got to wondering about the carbs' applicability with the stock pollution-control-influenced valve train. The question I have is whether the size 6 needles that I put in are perhaps a bit too rich for the valve timing in the later model Bs. I thought perhaps I'd try a number 21 instead. Has anyone had experience with this modification? Any recommendation on needle sizes. While you're thinking about that one, try this one on for size: Sometimes when I accelerate hard off the line, I get a sharp knock from the passenger side rear. I've checked the brakes and spring shackles, but nothing seems amiss. I've had the problem since I bought the car 2 years ago, but never experienced it on any other B's I've owned. Having just had the car repainted 6 months ago, I told them to check for any frame cancer, but the prognosis came back negative. Anyone ever experienced such a problem? Any help is much appreciated. Kurt D. Del Bene Bell Labs - WB ...!ihnp4!homxa!delbene
Re: MGB rear end noises
Author: Hank Cohen
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1985 21:10
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1985 21:10
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In article <1154@homxa.UUCP> delbene@homxa.UUCP (K.DELBENE) writes: > >Sometimes when I accelerate hard off the line, I get a sharp knock >from the passenger side rear. I've checked the brakes and spring shackles, >but nothing seems amiss. I've had the problem since I bought the car 2 years >ago, but never experienced it on any other B's I've owned. Having >just had the car repainted 6 months ago, I told them to check for any frame >cancer, but the prognosis came back negative. Anyone ever experienced such >a problem? > Your knock may be due to a bad rubber bushing on some suspension component that flexes under hard accelleration. I would like to mention that burning rubber off the starting line in an MG or Triumph is a very dangerous game. The first gear in those British transmissions used to be straight cut instead of helical cut like all of the others. This means that all of the load is carried by one gear tooth and you can strip off a tooth or two trying to drag race in those cars. My experience is a few years old so they may have fixed the problem but there are a lot of MG's around that go clunk clunk clunk in first gear. Iligitimi non carborundum Hank Cohen
Re: Proper Needle Sizes for SU HS-4 Carbs. on Detoxed MGB et. al.
Author: GERARD MAYER
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1985 13:47
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1985 13:47
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On my '71 MGB with dual SU carb I can easily test if the mixture is too rich by lifting the manual piston rod slightly while the engine is at idle. If it is too rich the engine slows and does not return to the same idle speed. When it is just right the engine speed stays the same as I lift the piston rod. I have found this to be a sensitive method with a little practice. Noise: I had the same problem and in my car it turned out to be the vapor collection canister in the trunk was loose enough to hit when I took OFF!!! Gerry Mayer uucp linus!raybed2!gxm
Re: MGB rear end noises
Author: Douglas Eshelman
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1985 21:07
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1985 21:07
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If you have wire wheels, it is possible that the splines are worn (as they are on all my wheels, which go clunk on acceleration and braking -- unless I get real excited with my spanner and hammer). Ie, tighten your wheels. It is also possible that your shock bolts may be loose. The offside, rear wheel splines tend to wear first, since it receives most of the torque on accelaration. The problem is aggravated by improper care and tightening of the wheels ( I'll take Reagan's stand and blame the previous owners ).
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