🚀 go-pugleaf

> 
> At first I thought this	newsgroup was only for sail boats, but then
> I saw the article(s) about water skiing	(which I don't think you can
> do behind a sailboat ;-> ).
> 
> I am about to purchase my first	power boat and I am at a loss as to
> what kind to get.  It will be for water	skiing,	fishing	and just crusing.
> Any recomendations on the following questions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
>     -How big?
> 
>     -What type hull (tri-hull, deep vee, etc.)?
> 
>     -Inboard or	Outboard (and what size) engine?
> 
>     -What drive	(Jet, In and Out, V)?
> 
>     -Brands (Does it matter)?
> 
> You can	mail responses (or just	experiences) directly to me.  If there
> is suffience interest I	will summarize for the net.
> 
> 		-Thanks-    -Pete-
> 
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I would like to see more powerboat articles here too, so I am going to      
kick in with my two cents worth on a 1st powerboat.  My first love (boatwise)
was a 14ft ski boat with a 40hp outboard (OMC) and I have owned or had 
memorable experiences with several others (much of it in Southern Calif).
I also paid my dues in sailboats (I owned two medium sized over a seven
year period) and although I still like to sail I prefer to do it on someone 
else's boat.  As to skiing behind a sailboat, you should look into the 
Lancer Powersailer (would you beleive 20 knots under power).  I don't really
recommend this for skiing, but you should be aware that some mighty strange
boats do exist. 

For a general use first powerboat these are my thoughts:

SIZE: 16 to 18 feet will be manageable in a trailer boat and still be big
      enough to go a little way offshore for fishing.

HULL: deep V - best for big water, comfortable but slower.
      modified V - most common on current boats, good for all around use.
		   (faster but pounds more than deep V).
      tri or cathedral - have great space utilization and are generally
			 fast and dry but watch load/balance. May pound
			 in rough water.  Best of this type is Boston Whaler
			 which are very good boats but are also more expensive.  
POWER:  Often this is dictated by the boat you admire (you take whatever is
	on the stern).  If you have a choice and can remain objective, then
	get an I/O or OB of about 2/3 to 3/4 the boats BIA rated max power.
	Pure inboards are rare (and expensive) in that size range but are
	ok if you find one that turns you on. For skiing, a big engine would
	be better (there is nothing like cubic inches to pull a heavy skier
	out of the water).  For fishing or cruising less brute power is
	needed.  Too much power can be a disadvantage (in handling and 
	fuel economy) and sometimes dangerous.  There are advantages and
        disadvantages to all of the power choices, but all forms will do
	what you want with the proper hull and engine combination.

DRIVE:  Jets (pumpers) are good for pure ski boats (no blades) and for
	shallow water operation but are expensive to buy and maintain
	(not very efficient either).  V drives have pretty much disappeared.
        The surface drive (Kamaa or Arneson) is now replacing I/Os
	as the I/Os did V drives for very high performance boats.  If
	you want an inboard get one with a straight drive.  For general 
	boat use, the I/O and outboard remain the most popular.

BRANDS: Stick with the popular brands (boating mags and newspaper want ads).
	This makes them easier to sell and they hold their value better.
        There is an old but true saying "there are two great days in a 
	boat owners life, the day he buys it and the day he sells it".

STYLES: A runabout with seats fore and aft is most common and is a good
	combination like a jack of all trades (but master of none). For
	skiing, rear facing seats are a real plus and for fishing, a center
	console is by far the best.

MATERIAL: Fiberglass is the most common but there are several newer designs
	  in aluminum which are light and strong and well worth considering.
	  Wood is good too in older boats but does require more TLC (some-
	  times the price can be well worth the extra effort).

WEIGHT: Assuming you are going to put in on a trailer, what are you going
	to tow it with?  Most cars these days have very limited towing 
	capabilities (check the manufacturer's specs).  Ask what the  
	boat and trailer weigh before you buy it (weigh the tongue
	and figure this at 15% of total for a rough guess).  No boat is a
	bargain if you have to buy a new vehicle to tow it with. 

I also recommend the basic boating courses put on by the U.S. Power
Squadron or the Coast Guard Auxillary.  They are free (or a nominal cost)
and are well worth the few hours it takes.
 
Shop around for used boats as well as new ones, the results may surprise
you. Remember that no one boat is going to do all and be all you ever want.
As your finances and desires change you will probably change boats to suit,
so don't be too critical of the first one.  GOOD LUCK .....