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Article #255

Re: Re: Rock-climb rating systems <LONG>

#255
From: Eli Liang
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1985 14:09
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> 5.12 was added in the late 1970s [I've only seen my first 5.12
> a month ago: a woman (!) climbing a 35 foot overhang roof (horizontal)
> split by a handjam, she peeled off three times while I was watching,
> each time putting in another piece, each time getting pulled back into
> the belay stance (I've off alpine climbing for the most part).]
> 5.13s were added recently.  I've yet to hear of a 5.14 yet.

I've seen only seen a couple 5.12 routes with my own eyes.  Most of them
seem to be contrived out of 5.10 or 5.11 routes with little twists to make
them difficult (no, no, you're only to use the crack....)  The remainder
seem to be face climbs with very few/shallow holds.  I've never seen a
5.13 and couldn't imagine a 5.13+ face climb (!).


> consistently.  I could climb a few 5.10abs at my peak.]  These systems
> break down with ice climbs, alpine climbs, and superalpine climbs as
> done in Pakistan right now.

What is a superalpine route? What is an example of a VII route?

> --eugene
> Formerly with the GPIW. Now Yosemite has been.
> --eugene miya
>   NASA Ames Research Center
>   {hplabs,ihnp4,dual,hao,decwrl,allegra}!ames!aurora!eugene
>   emiya@ames-vmsb

-eli
-- 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Eli Liang  ---
        University of Maryland Computer Vision Lab, (301) 454-4526
        ARPA: liang@cvl, liang@lemuria, eli@mit-mc, eli@mit-prep
        CSNET: liang@cvl  UUCP: {seismo,allegra,brl-bmd}!umcp-cs!cvl!liang
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From: eli@cvl.UUCP (Eli Liang)
Newsgroups: net.rec
Subject: Re: Re: Rock-climb rating systems <LONG>
Message-ID: <782@cvl.UUCP>
Date: Wed, 28-Aug-85 10:09:32 EDT
Article-I.D.: cvl.782
Posted: Wed Aug 28 10:09:32 1985
Date-Received: Thu, 29-Aug-85 08:45:30 EDT
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Organization: Computer Vision Lab, U. of Maryland, College Park
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