Thread View: pnw.general
2 messages
2 total messages
Started by Mark Crispin
Thu, 24 Dec 1992 00:41
Re: driving in snow (or other low traction conditions)
Author: Mark Crispin
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 00:41
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 00:41
31 lines
2333 bytes
2333 bytes
Walter Bright writes: >One thing I learned is that there is a point of no return on a skid, and >that is when the angle of the car is more acute than the angle the wheels >can turn. At this point, you are going to do a 360. Huh? That's just being sideways. It's quite possible to put a car sideways and remain in control. Some of us do it for fun, although not on the public roads (where it's called ``reckless driving''). I was under the impression that is what we were talking about; what to do when you get sideways in spite of your best efforts. There's no great skill needed in recovering from a minor shimmy. You do need a realistic assessment of your vehicle's capabilities on the road you purpose to take. >When this happens, the >best thing to do is *Jam The Brakes On And Lock All 4 Wheels*. What this >does is cause the car to slide in a straight line (while still rotating). You may want to consider what is lurking at the end of that straight line. I see plenty of cars which attempt to climb a steep S-curving road, with ditches on both sides, on ice. Repeated tests have shown that the ditches work quite well. One of the best testers is the ``I can drive on snow, just get a little momentum going'' crowd. The irony, of course, is that there is a detour that is straight as an arrow through the hills; it only adds about 1/2 mile to the total trip. But no, they have to test the S-curves and the ditches. Great entertainment to watch. The other deadly edge about ``lock your wheels and slide to a stop'' is that by sacrificing the remaining adhesion you have, you have given up all control over your vehicle. You may, in fact, end up going further that you would have if you had held on to your adhesion.
Re: driving in snow (or other low traction conditions)
Author: Walter Bright
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 21:38
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 21:38
23 lines
1885 bytes
1885 bytes
In article <MS-C.725157709.1103527590.mrc@Tomobiki-Cho.CAC.Washington.EDU> mrc@Tomobiki-Cho.CAC.Washington.EDU (Mark Crispin) writes: /Walter Bright writes: />When this happens, the />best thing to do is *Jam The Brakes On And Lock All 4 Wheels*. What this />does is cause the car to slide in a straight line (while still rotating). /The other deadly edge about ``lock your wheels and slide to a stop'' is that /by sacrificing the remaining adhesion you have, you have given up all control /over your vehicle. You may, in fact, end up going further that you would have /if you had held on to your adhesion. The rest of my post stated that you lock the wheels when you are spinning. When you are spinning, the tires are not rotating and you will not be slowing your rate of deceleration by locking the wheels. If you are going in a reasonably straight line, you will lose about 30-60% of your stopping power if you lock the wheels, as opposed to "threshhold braking". "threshhold braking" is applying enough brake pressure so that the wheel is just short of skidding, i.e. it is moving about 15% slower than the road. It makes a sound known as "happy tires" to racers, that is, "a happy tire is a singing tire". It is worth practicing happy tires, to do so, jam on the brakes till you get a full lock, then back off slightly. You'll get the idea. What anti-skid brakes do is do this automatically, though a skilled driver can outperform asb.
Thread Navigation
This is a paginated view of messages in the thread with full content displayed inline.
Messages are displayed in chronological order, with the original post highlighted in green.
Use pagination controls to navigate through all messages in large threads.
Back to All Threads