🚀 go-pugleaf

In article <1jt2lmINNl8k@umbc4.umbc.edu>, robie@umbc.edu (Mr. William Robie) writes:

> work) an I violated every law of common sense in buying antiques ...
> a) I got something I know NOTHING about (basically).
> b) I bought something broken, with no idea that it can be fixed - or for how 
> 	much.
> c) I bought something on an impulse.

OK, you bought into a fascinating learning experience.
And after buying lots of old radios, I suspect that "impulse" is the best guide;
if a set "grabs" you, grab it back.  The sets I regret buying are often ones
I thought about for a while, and I still kick myself for passing up
some ones that in my heart I knew I wanted.

> with the idea of having it in my office (even if it doesn't work - yet).  And
> even if I overpaid for it (I suspect I did), I felt like the price we agreed 
> on was worth it to me.  Now I want to find out a bit more about what I have

Just having a nice old set on display is fun, especially where others can
see it and talk about it.  My books are at home, but I'd say your set
"lists" at $80 - $100, maybe a tad more.  Getting the speaker with it,
with a still-decent cord, adds a lot to the value.

The later A-Kents (AC operated, metal cabinets) aren't quite as valuable
as the wooden, battery-operated jobs, but basically *any* A-K is quality
stuff and collectors know it.

> charm (to me) of the thing.  The Atwater Kent emblem on the top, and the 
> bezel around the tuning "window" are both nice, *big*, solid, brass pieces.

My A-K Model 47 has stamped sheet brass emblem, not as solid as yours,
but the set sure is heavy to pick up.

> Not little engraved "tags", but chunks of cast brass - more charm (to me). It
> is the kind of thing that is elegant in its ugliness (I salivate over a 
> nice-looking '48 Plymouth ... get the picture?).

You should just love late-20s console sets, with their carved legs, etc.

> From the description and the numbers, are there any of you who can pinpoint
> the date of mfg.?   A couple of kind folks around here have mentioned that

With my books I can get you within a year, and might have a schematic.
And can find out if it's a TRF or superheterodyne.

> is turned on.  Since there are two places for this number tube, and since I
> switched the two tubes around (the same one remained "dead" and the same one
> remained aglow), I figure that the tube is definitely dead, deceased, extant,

Your reasoning is superb, and yes the '45 is dead.  And congrats on
swapping it *only* into another socket of the same tube type.
(BTW, antique radios are simple enuf in their circuitry that only some
basic knowledge of electronics, plus good old logical reasoning like yours,
is enuf to diagnose and repair many problems.)

> Any ideas where I can find the aforementioned UX-245 tube?
From another radio collector, or the place in Arizona (you must have
got lots of email on this by now...)

> that the one tube *might* be all standing between me and Atwater Kent sound.

Quite possible.  You've already "smoke-tested" the set, which strictly speaking
you should not have done, but you got away with it, the set passed, so fine.
However, I suspect that the set has push-pull output (the other '45 is right
next to the bad one, right?) so you should get *some* sound if that's
all that's wrong.  Very likely your speaker or its cord and plug have
an open-circuit fault in either the voice coil or power choke.

> was kept in a fastidiously-clean environment. The light dust inside was not 
> enough to keep me from reading the numbers on the tags that identify which
> tube should be installed in which socket.  There were no black marks on or

Those A-K "tin boxes" really did seal out dust.  Most of the wooden lift-top
cabinet sets have an inch of dust and two mouse nests inside.

> I may need to get these, as well (healthy glow doesn't necessarily = healthy
> 	tube), so I'd love to know price and availability for these.

Usually if these old, direct-heated tubes light up, they'll play,
tho maybe at reduced volume and sensitivity.  I don't recall ever seeing
a tube of your vintage that lit but didn't work.  That's more than I can
say of both newer and earlier tubes.

> teeth on the brass gear to cut it.  I'll try a simple piece of rubber tubing,
> if I can't find an original replacement.

You'll never find an original part, since any such would have hardened
(or turned gooey) by now.  Making your own is a good idea.  Purists might
try to make a new one shaped as much as possible like the original.

Warning: If you get the set working, you may find it hard to
stop at *one* old radio ^-)
-- 
	"I don't think so, Al"
	knudsen@iexist.att.com