🚀 go-pugleaf

Disconnect trim cylinders from the drive. See if they will both
retract. One might go all the way in before the other starts to move.
That's OK. Raise and lower the drive by hand and notice if you feel
any binding.

--
Regards,
Jim
custom-yacht-services@att.net

-
"Lloyd Sumpter" <lsumpter@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:pan.2002.08.18.02.48.57.539772.2023@shaw.ca...
> Shuzbut!
>    Went out for a nice afternoon of cruising, fishing, swimming and
> general lazing about on the Campoin today...at least, tried to!
>    A few months ago, I couldn't get the drive to go down from the
full-up
> position. Took it to M&P Merc, and they said it was just stuck - it
> worked fine, and they didn't even charge me!
>    Today, same problem. Stupid me, I checked the engine, etc. before
I
> left the house, but didn't check the drive trim! Fortunately, the
kicker
> ran fine, so I got the boat off the trailer and to the dock where I
> messed with it a while before giving up.
>
>    Any thoughts on why this is happening? stuck valve? The pump
seems to
> be working - it moves the drive UP OK...Maybe the rams?
>
>    I'm trying to sell this boat, so I don't want to put a lot of
money
> into it - right now I want it working well enough so I can show
> prospective buyers that the engine runs fine, etc. and take them out
for
> a test-spin (yes, I'll tell them of any problems with the trim)
>
> Lloyd

Thanks for the HELPFUL information!

   I disconnected the cyls and neither moved. (They move slightly in the
"up" direction, but they're pretty much at the limit...)

   It appears to be a Prestolite pump based on the pics in the Manual,
but there's a valve that doesn't show anywhere in the manual, connected
to the shift lever. I'm assuming it's the one that lets the drive "kick
up" when in forward, but holds the drive down in reverse?

   If so, could that be the problem?

Lloyd

On Sun, 18 Aug 2002 05:27:02 -0700, Jim in MA wrote:

> Disconnect trim cylinders from the drive. See if they will both retract.
> One might go all the way in before the other starts to move. That's OK.
> Raise and lower the drive by hand and notice if you feel any binding.
> 
> --
> Regards,
> Jim
> custom-yacht-services@att.net
> 
> -
> "Lloyd Sumpter" <lsumpter@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:pan.2002.08.18.02.48.57.539772.2023@shaw.ca...
>> Shuzbut!
>>    Went out for a nice afternoon of cruising, fishing, swimming and
>> general lazing about on the Campoin today...at least, tried to!
>>    A few months ago, I couldn't get the drive to go down from the
> full-up
>> position. Took it to M&P Merc, and they said it was just stuck - it
>> worked fine, and they didn't even charge me!
>>    Today, same problem. Stupid me, I checked the engine, etc. before
> I
>> left the house, but didn't check the drive trim! Fortunately, the
> kicker
>> ran fine, so I got the boat off the trailer and to the dock where I
>> messed with it a while before giving up.
>>
>>    Any thoughts on why this is happening? stuck valve? The pump
> seems to
>> be working - it moves the drive UP OK...Maybe the rams?
>>
>>    I'm trying to sell this boat, so I don't want to put a lot of
> money
>> into it - right now I want it working well enough so I can show
>> prospective buyers that the engine runs fine, etc. and take them out
> for
>> a test-spin (yes, I'll tell them of any problems with the trim)
>>
>> Lloyd

I haven't seen anything quite that old, with the external reverse
lock. I don't think that is your problem anyway. Put an oil pan under
one of the cylinders and remove both hoses from it. Remember which way
they were attached. You should be able to push the ram in without
binding and pull it out without binding. Oil will leak out, so be
careful. I think you will feel binding. Now reach deeply into your
pockets and pull out about $600 US or $12,000 Canadian for new
cylinders unless you can trust your local guy to rebuild them.

--
Regards,
Jim
custom-yacht-services@att.net

-
"Lloyd Sumpter" <lsumpter@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:pan.2002.08.18.19.36.18.718994.2023@shaw.ca...
> Thanks for the HELPFUL information!
>
>    I disconnected the cyls and neither moved. (They move slightly in
the
> "up" direction, but they're pretty much at the limit...)
>
>    It appears to be a Prestolite pump based on the pics in the
Manual,
> but there's a valve that doesn't show anywhere in the manual,
connected
> to the shift lever. I'm assuming it's the one that lets the drive
"kick
> up" when in forward, but holds the drive down in reverse?
>
>    If so, could that be the problem?
>
> Lloyd
>
> On Sun, 18 Aug 2002 05:27:02 -0700, Jim in MA wrote:
>
> > Disconnect trim cylinders from the drive. See if they will both
retract.
> > One might go all the way in before the other starts to move.
That's OK.
> > Raise and lower the drive by hand and notice if you feel any
binding.
> >
> > --
> > Regards,
> > Jim
> > custom-yacht-services@att.net
> >
> > -
> > "Lloyd Sumpter" <lsumpter@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> > news:pan.2002.08.18.02.48.57.539772.2023@shaw.ca...
> >> Shuzbut!
> >>    Went out for a nice afternoon of cruising, fishing, swimming
and
> >> general lazing about on the Campoin today...at least, tried to!
> >>    A few months ago, I couldn't get the drive to go down from the
> > full-up
> >> position. Took it to M&P Merc, and they said it was just stuck -
it
> >> worked fine, and they didn't even charge me!
> >>    Today, same problem. Stupid me, I checked the engine, etc.
before
> > I
> >> left the house, but didn't check the drive trim! Fortunately, the
> > kicker
> >> ran fine, so I got the boat off the trailer and to the dock where
I
> >> messed with it a while before giving up.
> >>
> >>    Any thoughts on why this is happening? stuck valve? The pump
> > seems to
> >> be working - it moves the drive UP OK...Maybe the rams?
> >>
> >>    I'm trying to sell this boat, so I don't want to put a lot of
> > money
> >> into it - right now I want it working well enough so I can show
> >> prospective buyers that the engine runs fine, etc. and take them
out
> > for
> >> a test-spin (yes, I'll tell them of any problems with the trim)
> >>
> >> Lloyd

Just took it in to M&P Merc this morning. The same guy looked at it,
and sure enough, if one guy pressed down on the the drive while another
pushed the down button, down she went. Then she worked fine, either
direction.

   I told them to give me a quote for replacing the cyls anyway - he said
he normally replaces with rebuilt ones for $200CDN each.

Lloyd

On Sun, 18 Aug 2002 17:50:36 -0700, Jim in MA wrote:

> I haven't seen anything quite that old, with the external reverse lock.
> I don't think that is your problem anyway. Put an oil pan under one of
> the cylinders and remove both hoses from it. Remember which way they
> were attached. You should be able to push the ram in without binding and
> pull it out without binding. Oil will leak out, so be careful. I think
> you will feel binding. Now reach deeply into your pockets and pull out
> about $600 US or $12,000 Canadian for new cylinders unless you can trust
> your local guy to rebuild them.
> 
> --
> Regards,
> Jim
> custom-yacht-services@att.net
> 
> -
> "Lloyd Sumpter" <lsumpter@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:pan.2002.08.18.19.36.18.718994.2023@shaw.ca...
>> Thanks for the HELPFUL information!
>>
>>    I disconnected the cyls and neither moved. (They move slightly in
> the
>> "up" direction, but they're pretty much at the limit...)
>>
>>    It appears to be a Prestolite pump based on the pics in the
> Manual,
>> but there's a valve that doesn't show anywhere in the manual,
> connected
>> to the shift lever. I'm assuming it's the one that lets the drive
> "kick
>> up" when in forward, but holds the drive down in reverse?
>>
>>    If so, could that be the problem?
>>
>> Lloyd
>>
>> On Sun, 18 Aug 2002 05:27:02 -0700, Jim in MA wrote:
>>
>> > Disconnect trim cylinders from the drive. See if they will both
> retract.
>> > One might go all the way in before the other starts to move.
> That's OK.
>> > Raise and lower the drive by hand and notice if you feel any
> binding.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Regards,
>> > Jim
>> > custom-yacht-services@att.net
>> >
>> > -
>> > "Lloyd Sumpter" <lsumpter@shaw.ca> wrote in message
>> > news:pan.2002.08.18.02.48.57.539772.2023@shaw.ca...
>> >> Shuzbut!
>> >>    Went out for a nice afternoon of cruising, fishing, swimming
> and
>> >> general lazing about on the Campoin today...at least, tried to!
>> >>    A few months ago, I couldn't get the drive to go down from the
>> > full-up
>> >> position. Took it to M&P Merc, and they said it was just stuck -
> it
>> >> worked fine, and they didn't even charge me!
>> >>    Today, same problem. Stupid me, I checked the engine, etc.
> before
>> > I
>> >> left the house, but didn't check the drive trim! Fortunately, the
>> > kicker
>> >> ran fine, so I got the boat off the trailer and to the dock where
> I
>> >> messed with it a while before giving up.
>> >>
>> >>    Any thoughts on why this is happening? stuck valve? The pump
>> > seems to
>> >> be working - it moves the drive UP OK...Maybe the rams?
>> >>
>> >>    I'm trying to sell this boat, so I don't want to put a lot of
>> > money
>> >> into it - right now I want it working well enough so I can show
>> >> prospective buyers that the engine runs fine, etc. and take them
> out
>> > for
>> >> a test-spin (yes, I'll tell them of any problems with the trim)
>> >>
>> >> Lloyd
>

Lloyd Sumpter <lsumpter@shaw.ca> wrote in message news:<1029775664.269356@news1.lynx.bc.ca>...
> Just took it in to M&P Merc this morning. The same guy looked at it,
> and sure enough, if one guy pressed down on the the drive while another
> pushed the down button, down she went. Then she worked fine, either
> direction.
> 
>    I told them to give me a quote for replacing the cyls anyway - he said
> he normally replaces with rebuilt ones for $200CDN each.
> 
> Lloyd
> 
> On Sun, 18 Aug 2002 17:50:36 -0700, Jim in MA wrote:
> 
> > I haven't seen anything quite that old, with the external reverse lock.
> > I don't think that is your problem anyway. Put an oil pan under one of
> > the cylinders and remove both hoses from it. Remember which way they
> > were attached. You should be able to push the ram in without binding and
> > pull it out without binding. Oil will leak out, so be careful. I think
> > you will feel binding. Now reach deeply into your pockets and pull out
> > about $600 US or $12,000 Canadian for new cylinders unless you can trust
> > your local guy to rebuild them.
> > 
> > --
> > Regards,
> > Jim
> > custom-yacht-services@att.net
 
Assuming this is an Alpha 1 drive unit.. I had this problem a while ago 
with an Alpha one after replacing one of the rams. Putting some weight 
while trimming the drive down fixed the problem temporarily, Bleeding the 
system and lubricating the shaft seals fixed the problem for good.

Ray

On Tue, 20 Aug 2002 08:29:39 -0700, Ray wrote:

> Lloyd Sumpter <lsumpter@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:<1029775664.269356@news1.lynx.bc.ca>...
>> Just took it in to M&P Merc this morning. The same guy looked at it,
>> and sure enough, if one guy pressed down on the the drive while another
>> pushed the down button, down she went. Then she worked fine, either
>> direction.
>> 
>>    I told them to give me a quote for replacing the cyls anyway - he
>>    said
>> he normally replaces with rebuilt ones for $200CDN each.
>> 
>> Lloyd
>> 
>> On Sun, 18 Aug 2002 17:50:36 -0700, Jim in MA wrote:
>> 
>> > I haven't seen anything quite that old, with the external reverse
>> > lock. I don't think that is your problem anyway. Put an oil pan under
>> > one of the cylinders and remove both hoses from it. Remember which
>> > way they were attached. You should be able to push the ram in without
>> > binding and pull it out without binding. Oil will leak out, so be
>> > careful. I think you will feel binding. Now reach deeply into your
>> > pockets and pull out about $600 US or $12,000 Canadian for new
>> > cylinders unless you can trust your local guy to rebuild them.
>> > 
>> > --
>> > Regards,
>> > Jim
>> > custom-yacht-services@att.net
>  
> Assuming this is an Alpha 1 drive unit.. I had this problem a while ago
> with an Alpha one after replacing one of the rams. Putting some weight
> while trimming the drive down fixed the problem temporarily, Bleeding
> the system and lubricating the shaft seals fixed the problem for good.
> 
> Ray

   Well, it's actually much older than an Alpha, but basically the same
drive (1983 120 Model I)

   It's STILL in at M&P, and I'm STILL waiting for that estimate. One
more day and I'm taking it back. I suspect you're right - a bleed and
maybe some shaft seal lube would probably do the trick.

Lloyd
"Valkyrie" Campion 18