🚀 go-pugleaf

In article <1i6v1dINN4db@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aq479@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul E. Sincaglia) writes:
>
>In a previous post I asked about Tetors ne Model Master Acrylic
>line.  As I prefer using the water based paints, I would really
>like an assessment of all acrylic paints suitable for modeling
>rom all of you folks.
>
>Which of the paints are the best and the worst and for what 
>reasons......etc.

I have completely given up on the use of acrylic paints in my airbrush after 
a bad experience with Pactra flat black acrylic.  To put it simply, the paint
stuck to my airbrush's insides and neither water nor mineral-based thinners
nor alcohol nor ammonia nor any other horrible toxin that I could think of
has ever been able to get it off.  It came off the chromed parts of the
airbrush all right, but not the unfinished metal (i.e. all the important
parts).  This was the first paint I ever used in my new airbrush and that
may have contributed to the problem (perhaps airbrush metal gets sealed 
somehow by repeated use with enamels and their thinners).  The coating of
black paint does not seriously impede the functioning of the airbrush and
of course I have little concern that it will ever bleed into other paints
I'm using, so I'm not much upset anymore but from now on it's enamels only
in that airbrush as far as I'm concerned.

To make matters worse, I have found that although Pactra flat black sticks
to airbrushes, it does not stick to models!  It scratches off extraordinarily
easily.  I now use it only as a weathering wash, for which it is useful over
enamels because it doesn't lift off the paint underneath as a thinned enamel
would tend to do.

I assume that not many people have had this airbrush-sticking problem with
acrylics because if they had it would be common knowledge.  Why it happened
in my case remains a mystery.

august horvath <augustho@usc.edu>