🚀 go-pugleaf

In article <1992Nov20.030548.1060@b30.ingr.com> jay@b30.ingr.com (James Reeves) writes:
>
>
>God, how things have changed in 10 years!  I think the norm is also to use
>super glue to assemble the model and also for filler - is that right?
>

I still use Testor's Liquid Cement after all these year for gluing
plastic to plastic. This provides a MUCH BETTER bond as the plastic
surfaces are actaullay melted together. If you do it right, this seam
is as strong or stronger than the regular plastic.

Stuporglue (as we refer to it in North Carolina) is an adhesive - it
doesn't chemically bond the plastic together. It is like using Elmers
White glue to join metal pieces (well, the stuporglue is a _bit_
stonger) - pull on it hard enough and the pieces come apart at the
seams. I have a friend that built this really nice B-17 using
stuporglue. After completing the kit he dropped it and the belly seam
split open. This probably wouldn't have happened had he used liquid
cement. (Sorry to remind you of this, Kevin.) If you want to break a
stuporglue bond try tapping it and applying a lateral force to the
parts. Stuporglue bonds will shear more easily that they will pull apart.

I will run a bead of stuporglue along the inside of main seams to
provide strengthening of the seam. I also use stuporglue for minor
seam filling and attaching metal and resin parts to plastic. I also
use it to amuse family members when I accidentally glue various hobby
tools to my hands. (Stuporglue was originally developed as a liquid
field dressing during the VietNam War to bond skin to skin - to close
large gaping wounds quickly. The main problem, as you probably geussed,
was that medics often were glued to their patients!)

--Jesse