🚀 go-pugleaf

In article <1k1hbqINNqp5@slab.mtholyoke.edu> pscotto@MtHolyoke.edu (Peter J. Scotto) writes:

>However, on the actual  aircraft and vehicles I have seen, the
>lines of demarcation between colors seem pretty distinct and should be
>more so on the smaller scale model.  So what's going on here?
>Is this a case of the tool driving the modeller?
>
>Specifically, I'm working on an A-10 now with a three color
>camouflage pattern (dark green, medium green, and dark grey).
>When I look at the plans, what I see represented are distinct
>patches of color, but when I look at the box, I see this indistinct
>feathery stuff.  My inclination is to mask and use the airbrush or
>use a brush.

Actually, IMHO, it is a question of an illusion. The wiever knows there
are soft demarcation lines on the real thing - he waits to see them also
in the model. To make things clear, the demarcation lines must be exagger-
ated in the small scales to look realistic: compare with the highlighting
and shading of the miniature figurines. Therefore demarcation lines are
airbrushed on the model to appear as soft, and they do look like ones
on the real thing - although they are grossly out of scale. Sharp edges,
like those obtained with an ordinary brush, just don't create the same
illusion - they don't resemble the real thing.

To reduce the feathery edge, but still leave it to look like brushed, one
good solution is to use mask. I have two solutions: either I use 3M Post-
It patches cut in form (the yellow billets, you know) or ordinary carpenter's
tape with the edges rolled up for about 1-2 mm. To obtain thin line, one should
have VERY dilute paint (I use 1:3 - 1:4) AND high pressure (2-2.5 bar).
Xtracolor enamels and Tamiya acrylics are good for this.

And also, if you want hard edges, just press the mask edge firmly onto the 
model. Also, an airbrush is an enormous timesaver - you'll do the same job
in fifteen minutes you'd be using 2 h with a hairbrush (a pun intended !)
and the coat is even - no flocks, brush marks etc. For a serious modeler
an airbrush is, IMHO, a must.

And, with the T-bolt, the demarcation lines on the real thing are RREALLY
coarse, I'd use an airbrush freehand to paint the blotches.




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