Article View: rec.models.scale
Article #454Re: Ruined Model?
From: Jesse Thorn
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 21:25
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 21:25
57 lines
3669 bytes
3669 bytes
From a prior alt.models series of postings on removing paint from plastic models..... ------------------------------- There have been lots of suggestions - let's put them all together: 1) Brake fluid - an old standby, I've found that it softens the plastic and is kinda expensive. It's also v.toxic, so you ought not to use it around kids. 2) Easy-off (and similar oven cleaners) - another commonly-used product, but toxic and loaded with fumes. 3) Pine-sol - noxious smell, but does the job well 4) Fantastik - this one I've not tried yet, but it got rave reviews from readers in a couple of magazines. It also seems to be the least irritating (to the nose and skin.) It also reportedly "never" harmed the kit parts, given the low concentration of active agents; one writer claimed that he left parts in for weeks, out of laziness, but that the stripping action would commonly work overnight. ---------------------------- Greetings from Maryland "The Free State"; Home of the latest helmet law, The best method that I know of, and have been using for several years, for removing old paint is to completely immerse the model in "DOT 3" brake fluid for at least three days. This will completely lift the old paint (enamel acrylic, or lacquer) off of the model without any damage whatsoever to the plastic. Some minor scrubbing with a soft brush will probably be necessary to remove paint from around corners, crevices, extrusions, etc. The old paint will come off much like a sheet of wet tissue paper. The brake fluid will not affect cement or fillers. Two important points: only "DOT 3", not "DOT 5" brake fluid will work for paint removal (no particular brand is better than any other, the cheap stuff is just as good as more expensive brands); and, insure that the old painted surface stays wet with fluid as you work. If it dries out you will have to start over again with the soaking process. What works best for me is to use one of those aluminum pans you buy in the grocery store for both a soaking and scrubbing pan. Be sure to wear a good pair of heavy rubber gloves while doing this as the brake fluid will dry your skin out very quickly. Remember to be very careful not to spill any of the fluid on anything, as it will remove paint (or dye) from whatever it touches. Use an unpainted, natural hair brush for scrubbing, one with a wooden handle as the fluid will sometimes affect nylon/synthetic bru shes. I prefer this method over any commercially available paint remover as they (even the Polly-S brand) will affect the plastic; and, since the brake fluid does not evaporate, it can be reused over and over again indefinitely, requiring you to only filter or scoop out the paint flakes I have one can (at 79 cents) of brake fluid I've been reusing for over four years. This also makes it much less expensive, not to mention in- finitely less odiferous than the oven cleaner method, which also will sometimes affect or mar the surface of some polystyrene. Didn't mean to run on so long, so good luck and hope this helps. ------------------------------
Technical Details
Message-ID:
<1993Jan6.212540.16883@samba.oit.unc.edu>Path:
arc1-ca.pugleaf.net!sparky!uunet!paladin.american.edu!gatech!concert!samba!phoenix!thornReferences:
<1993Jan6.150633.21023@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> <C0G57o.Atx@ra.nrl.navy.mil>Show Full Headers
Complete Article Headers
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale Path: arc1-ca.pugleaf.net!sparky!uunet!paladin.american.edu!gatech!concert!samba!phoenix!thorn From: thorn@phoenix.radonc.unc.edu (Jesse Thorn) Subject: Re: Ruined Model? Message-ID: <1993Jan6.212540.16883@samba.oit.unc.edu> Sender: usenet@samba.oit.unc.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: phoenix.radonc.unc.edu Organization: Radiation Oncology, NCMH/UNC, Chapel Hill, NC References: <1993Jan6.150633.21023@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> <C0G57o.Atx@ra.nrl.navy.mil> Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:25:40 GMT Lines: 57