🚀 go-pugleaf

In article <1992Nov9.222001.28262@cs.wisc.edu> rader@ssec.wisc.edu (Steve Rader) writes:
>mar@athena.mit.edu (Mark A. Rosenstein) writes:
>|> I've made two different kinds of float switches.  The first only cost me
>|> a couple of dollars, but wasn't especially reliable and called for a part
>|> from Radio Shack that has been discontinued (a mercury tilt switch).
>|> 
>I'm glad this works for 'ya, but if I recall correctly, Grainger's does *not*
>offer a 120V rated plastic float switch.  I suspect you're using a 12V rated
>float switch to switch 120V circuit.  I'm not sure what the consequences may
>be of using a 12V switch for a 120V circuit... I think you'll at least shorten
>the switch's life-time and perhaps even harm your pump.  (I do know when I
>asked some EE geeks around here 'bout using a 12V switch, they definitely

Geeks huh.  I suggest you read your granger cat again.  The $14 switch I
bought is rated up to 220 volts at 30 watts.  Because I have a 120 watt
pump I did use a relay.  In my case I use the switch to prevent tank
overfill if the syphon breaks (the float switch is in the tank not the
sump).  I had this happen and once was enough, fortunetly I was in the 
next room at the time preventing disaster.  My sump holds about 15 gallons
so I don't worry about the pump running dry.  I also have a float valve
that keeps the sump level constant filling it from an external tank.

Brian