🚀 go-pugleaf

In article <carmody.725661651@feldspar32> carmody@rtsg.mot.com (Ronald P. Carmody) writes:
>I am tring to answer the question :
>     What is the best artificial environment for Pterophyllum Scalare.

As opposed to what?  The "natural environment" for P. scalare (aka angels)
are the slow-moving, small Amazon delta streams.

>I am assuming the following : 
>     I have a one year old mated pair of Pterophyllum Scalare.  My goal
>     is to produce the healthest possible artificial environment.

You are assuming that you have a 1 year old mated pair.  Do you?  If not,
then you have to get a pair and that is not necessarily simple.  Angels do
not exhibit obvious sexual differences unless they are ready to spawn.

>1) Aquarium parameters
>	1a) Volume

As much as possible.  At least 20 gal is needed, 30 is likely to work, 60 is
better for a good-looking setup where a pair of angels can spawn and yet
the tank will not look like the usual spawning tanks (bare tanks with the
spawning medium and a simple filter).

>	1b) Dimensions

At least 18" water depth for a full-grown fish.  Wild fish get larger and
grow over 10" tall, so the tank should be deeper -- perhaps 24" or deeper.
The tank should be at least 3' long.

>	1c) Substrate

No substrate is best, but it looks less than wonderful and the rooted 
plants do not do or look well without substrate.  3-4" of coarse river sand
is a good idea for a planted tank.  About 1/2" of gravel is sufficient to
make the tank look less barren.  Natural substrate would be clay, mud and a
layer of rotting curled up tropical tree leaves.

A layer of fiberous peat will do a good job of immitating the leaf litter.
>	1d) Plants

If you want to keep with the natural look -- none.  If you want to go for
the typical "amazon" tank, use sword plants.

>	1e) Rocks

None if you want it to look narural.  Otherwise some non-reactive large
rocks will look OK.

>	1f) Other

Bogwood, roots and so on.  Angels look nice with a dark piece of bogwood
behind them.

>2) Lighting parameters
>	2a) Day Intensity

Dim.  "Light shade" to "shade" levels.  Of course, the plants will not like
it much.

>	2b) Night Intensity

None.  If you still want to see the fish, use a low-wattage red light bulb.

>	2c) Daytime duration

10-12 hrs.

>	2d) Nighttime duration

24 - 2C.

>	2e) Other

Use a Vita-Lite or some other full spectrum light.

>3) Water parameters
>	3a) Temperature

75-82F.

>	3b) pH

5.5-7.5.  Something like 6.5 pH will be good.

>	3c) Hardness

0 to medium hard.  Very soft is best.

>	3d) Ammonia level
>	3e) Nitrite level
>	3f) Nitrate level

0 on all.

>	3g) Circulation

Slow but thorough.  One tank volume per hour is sufficient in a low-load
tank, more if you don't have plants in the tank.

>4) Diet parameters
>	4a) Type

Live foods and veggie flakes.

>	4b) Quantity

Not too much.  Fish should always be willing to eat more.  

>5) Occupants (other)
>	5a) Type

Corydoras or Brochis species catfish, mid-sized tetras or pencilfishes,
hatchet fishes, non-annual rivulines.

>	5b) Quantity

For a 30 gal tank 3-6 catfishes and 6-8 tetras.  For a 60 gal tank: a dozen
tetras of a single species, 6-8 Cories, 1 Pleco.

Of course, there is a hundred other setups possible, so get yourself a few
books and read up on the fish, the plants and the habitats.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path