🚀 go-pugleaf

"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote in message 
news:4961f0fa$0$25649$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
> Ok, as I mentioned elsewhere in this thread, I managed to get the A/C 
> working again by replacing Q1 and the 8.2 ohm resistor.
>
> Actually, I'd misread it, and when I looked more carefully, it realised it 
> was 6.2 ohm, as is the other one on the board with the same markings 
> (i.e., a not blown one). Nice standard value that.
>
> So now I have to replace the resistor with a fusible, but sourcing a 6.2 
> ohm fusible is problematic.
>
> The situation is not made any easier because if the switching transistor 
> fails by shorting out, then after it blows the fusible will have 340V 
> across it.
>
> From the suppliers I now know about (thanks, Trevor), I can get a 0.5 watt 
> 340V 4.7 ohm fusible. I propose to put it in series with a 1.5 ohm 1 watt 
> non-fusible. My reasoning is that the 1.5 ohm resistor will have only 1/3 
> the power dissipation, and will handle twice as much. Therefore the 4.7 
> ohm will go open circuit before the 1.5 ohm could get hot enough to be a 
> problem.
>
> Does this stand up?
>
> Sylvia.
>
>
Are you absolutely sure that it is definitely 6.2 ohms ? That is a *very* 
odd value, particularly for a fusible type ... FWIW, I really don't think 
that the circuit would give a damn if you replaced it with a 6.8 ohm, which 
is a standard value. Did you actually measure the one that's ok with an 
accurate low ohms meter, and get a reading of 6.2 ? Seems to me that a grey 
band and a blue band might easily be misread one for the other, with some of 
the banding paints I've seen used over the years. I find that it is often 
very easy to misread red for orange or brown, especially if the resistor 
runs warm in normal use.

Otherwise, if it definitely is 6.2 ohms, and you really want to replace it 
with exactly that value, your reasoning with making such a value in the way 
that you suggest, would be quite valid.

Arfa