🚀 go-pugleaf

"VanguardLH" <V@nguard.LH> wrote in message 
news:g7ednb_5poMYHz3VnZ2dnUVZ_gudnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
>> "john hamilton" wrote:
>>
>
>>> Does anyone know what would be a suitable and safe lubricant in this
>>> case? Since we dont want to cause any problems with the plastic on
>>> this lap top. Grateful for any suggestions, thanks.
>>
>> Silicon lube should work.  However, I would use soap.  That's common
>> ordinary soap flakes or shredded Ivory brand soap bars.  That's what
>> I use for doors, hinges, screws, cd trays, and any place where I need
>> a no-mess lube job.
>
> NOTE: The following unrelated newsgroups were removed from my reply to
> the cross-posted message:
>  misc.consumers.frugal-living
>  uk.d-i-y
>
> You said not to use vegetable oils.  Yet then you suggest by way of
> Ivory soap to use animal fat (sodium tallowate = sodium hydroxide, or
> caustic lye, and tallow).  Because Ivory is more caustic is why it has
> better antimicrobial qualities.  Yeah, like animal fat doesn't break
> down.  Ivory is more caustic than, say, Dove which is more mild and is a
> synthethic detergent bar (synthetic surfecants and vegetable oil).
>
> I always snickered about the "99.44% pure" slogan since they never did
> mention from WHAT it was pure.  It was a measure against the castile
> soap (made from vegetable oil and less lye) against which it competed
> back in the 1890's regarding proclaimed impurities (maybe the fine ash
> used in soap-making to provide the salts) that were in the castile soap
> but not in Ivory.
>
> The hard lube sticks you buy (to rub on the lube which would do nothing
> in the case of hinges or anywhere the lubricate needs to penetrate to
> interface between the working surfaces) are made from some combination
> of grease, wax, hardened fats (which would be more like the Ivory soap
> bar), glyceride, graphite or PTFE (aka Teflon), molybdenum disulfide,
> and a petroleum derived hydrocarbon.  Obviously a soap bar or lube stick
> won't last long where there is any humidity.  That's why using a soap
> bar on a kitchen drawer works well but not on drawers in the bathroom
> vanity.  A silicone-based lube won't be permanent but it lasts longer
> than soap and won't build up like soap.  Molybdenum disulfide (aka Moly)
> is a dry lubricant and would probably work better on the drawers and
> definitely on the hinges.  Moly has an extraordinary affinity to stick
> to metal so it's good for hinges once you get a wetting carrier to
> penetrate and deposit the Moly on the mating surfaces or use a grease
> formula to keep it sticking in place when you re-assemble the pieces.
>
> While I'll use a soap bar to help screw in that superlong wood screw,
> I'm not thereafter concerned about the lubrication qualities of the
> soap.  It doesn't have to provide long-lasting lubrication.  Just once
> is enough.  Lasting lubrication is not what soap does.  I snicker when
> thinking about using it on hinges, as mentioned, and then wonder why the
> hinge is squeaking again after a rainstorm or why the steamy bathroom
> vanity drawers are sticking again.  Might be a no-mess lube job but it's
> not a good lube job.

i totally agree

washingup liquid is good on sqeaky hinges for a while, till it rusts them

hth