🚀 go-pugleaf

In article <1498@crete.cs.glasgow.ac.uk> mohamed@cs.glasgow.ac.uk (Geoff Mohamed) writes:
>In article <7222@cup.portal.com> R_Tim_Coslet@cup.portal.com writes:
>
>Use sockets, they are less hassle all round. Cheap sockets protrude further
>so if you need to mod the board you can easily add another wrap on top of an
>existing one. Turned pin sockets have shorter legs so are trickier to use.
>

	I agree. The other problem with those posh turned-pin sockets is
	that the wire has no corners to grip as it it does with the
	cheapo sockets. This means:

		a: The wire tends to spring off before you can
		   solder it.

		b: There's less chance of the corner of the pin
		   cutting into the insulation and helping to
		   ensure a better joint.

>You can have problems with the combs falling out. A friend suggested
>fixing this by applying a hot needle to the lugs from the component side
>of the board. This then forms a sort of rivet out of the plastic.

	Good idea. In the past I have fixed the combs down with loops
	of wire passed over the comb and soldered to spare pads on
	the other side. This is very effective where the wiring 
	run makes a 90 degree turn, e.g. at the end of a row of chips.


	I've found the Verowire method very reliable. Boards that I
	made 6+ years ago are still working fine.


	The worst feature is those *!#$@^ plastic wiring pens. If the
	wire slips out of the end it takes an age to rethread it.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|		  Peter Kendell <pete@tcom.stc.co.uk>	        	   |
|				...{uunet!}mcvax!ukc!stc!pete		   |
----------------------------------------------------------------------------