Article View: sci.electronics
Article #20673Re: How-to make PC boards
From: barry ornitz
Date: Tue, 07 Feb 1989 04:25
Date: Tue, 07 Feb 1989 04:25
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3359 bytes
In article <7054@killer.DALLAS.TX.US> elg@killer.DALLAS.TX.US (Eric Green)
writes:
>Now I need to make some PC
>boards for things which are not suited for wire-wrapping due to
>mechanical considerations (e.g., a "daughterboard" that sits in place
>of an IC chip & adds various functionality). I have a good idea of
>what's required for making PC boards, i.e. that you have a
>photoresist, a mylar transparency, and an ultraviolet light, and you
>do it all in a darkroom then dip it into etchant. What I don't have is
>the specifics -- the specific methodology, the chemicals used, where
>to buy supplies, etc. Is there a "how-to" sort of book for etching PC
>boards? Have any of the major electronics magazines published articles
>on how to do it? (I can fetch such articles off of microfilm at the
>library, though it'll be expensive).
My suggestion is to buy the book "Electronic Prototype Construction" by Steve
Kasten. It is published by Howard W. Sams & Co. (ISBN: 0-672-21895-X) and
costs around $18. While some of the newest techniques such as surface mount
and CAD systems are not discussed, this is _still_ the best book I can suggest
for the beginner. Essentially, this book goes into everything you need. It
discusses commercial equipment and how you can make do with improvised
techniques. While Steve is a good friend and co-worker in the Process
Instrumentation Research Lab, I never tell him how good the book is - it might
swell his head. ;-) Any bookstore should be able to order the book for you.
BTW, Steve and I found a very quick way to rejuvenate our Cupric Chloride
etch bath last week. A bottle of 30% Hydrogen Peroxide added to the spent bath
(which also contained Hydrochloric Acid) worked wonders - the bath turned the
prettiest blue-green just before the etch room exploded! ;-)
[Actually be very careful with any peroxide - they are all hazardous. We
normally bubble air through the bath to regenerate it, but I had eight square
feet of board to etch and very little time for the bath to recover. I would
have preferred a lower concentration of peroxide to work with since the 30%
solution can be quite dangerous under certain conditions. By titrating the
bath properly and using just the right amount of peroxide, we were able to
safely speed up the regeneration process. You could probably use the drug-
store 3% peroxide safely at home.]
Barry
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| ___ ________ |
| | / / | | Dr. Barry L. Ornitz UUCP:..rutgers!rochester!kodak!ornitz
| | / / | | Eastman Kodak Company
| |< < K O D A K| | Eastman Chemicals Division Research Laboratories
| | \ \ | | P. O. Box 1972
| |__\ \________| | Kingsport, TN 37662 615/229-4904
| |
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Path: arc1-ca.pugleaf.net!utzoo!utgpu!jarvis.csri.toronto.edu!mailrus!cornell!rochester!kodak!ornitz From: ornitz@kodak.UUCP (barry ornitz) Newsgroups: sci.electronics Subject: Re: How-to make PC boards Summary: Buy THE Book Keywords: printed circuits, prototypes, books, Kasten Message-ID: <1685@kodak.UUCP> Date: 7 Feb 89 04:25:30 GMT References: <7054@killer.DALLAS.TX.US> Reply-To: ornitz@kodak.UUCP (barry ornitz) Followup-To: sci.electronics Organization: Eastman Kodak Co, Rochester, NY Lines: 48