🚀 go-pugleaf

Subject: Re: Converting a florescent hood
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,sci.electronics

In article <3693@convex.UUCP> tork@convex.COM (Bill Torkelson) writes:
>
>I have a couple of hoods that are very attractive and fit onto my show
>tanks.  The problem with them is that they have manual switches.  By this
>I mean that they require the switch to be held in for a certain period of
>time before the light will start.  From what I have learned from
>Richard's postings I believe that this may have something to do with the
>"ballast" but I'm not sure.  What I'd really like to do is convert these
>lights to auto startup lights so I can put them on timers.  Since these
>are show tanks I would like to preserve the appearance of the hood.  How
>easy is it to convert from a manual startup to an auto startup?  Should
>I expect to make major modifications?  Is it just a matter of buying a
>shop light and taking the guts out and putting then into the existing
>hood?

*However, what I think you want to do is go to the hardware
*store a buy a starter (fluorescent light starter) that is meant
*for the tube you have (20 watts, 30 watts etc) and wire it 
*in place where the switch used to be. I've just wrapped
*the wire around the posts on the starter and covered it with
*a bunch of electrical tape.

This is the correct procedure, but I thought a longer winded explanation
but be of some help to Bill.  The "switch" has two "switches" inside of
it.  There is a switch to turn on the power, and one to start the light.
When you push the switch it clicks on the power to the ballast, this 
power remains on after you let go, these two wires need to stay connected
as is.  The other two wires are to start the bulb, and are only connected
for as long as you push the button.  The two starting wires will go to 
pins on opposite ends of the light bulb,  you need to disconnect them
from the switch and attach a starter in place of the switch.  Starters
almost always have aluminum terminals so soldiering to them is not
possible.  Finding sockets for them is equally impossible, so I guess
you will have to make do with wrapping wire around the terminals and
taping.  There is no polarity on the starter to worry about (you can't
put it in backwards, it doesn't matter).  The wires to the switch that
you want to leave intact are the two that go to the 120 volt power cord
and to the ballast.  

Frank Ball          frankb@hpsad.HP.COM