🚀 go-pugleaf

In article <847.25aff5f4@simpact.com> jeh@simpact.com writes:

> (Mark Robert Thorson) writes:

>> You can also cut it with a straight handsaw, like what you would use on
>> plywood.  That produces a cleaner edge.  Most power tools don't work very
>> well on Plexiglas.
>
>In my limited experience, a small table saw will work fine, PROVIDED that you 
>have a carbide-tipped blade in it.  Expensive, but will last a long time.  
>Or, the Plexiglas dealers sell special blades for the purpose.  But scribe 
>cutting as described by Mark is fine for working with eighth-inch stuff.  
>In quarter-inch I've usually found that the scriber makes too curved an 
>edge for gluing -- I don't feel like filing down variations that large.  
>No doubt my technique needs to be improved. 

I've found an even easier way to cut plexiglass than that.  Use pretty much
any fine toothed saw and direct a strong stream of compressed on the kerf.
I use a blowgun with a clamp attached.  The tip is about 1/4" away from the
blade.  This blast of very cold air will stop localized melting which is
the root of most cutting problems.  I use this on both a sabre saw and
a circle saw.  I run the circle saw on a variac to slow it down a bit
for more controlability but I suspect it would work fine at full speed.

I've tried a water mister but it makes a bloody mess and is no more
efficient at cooling.

John


-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC                     | The Fano Factor - 
Radiation Systems, Inc.     Atlanta, GA    | Where Theory meets Reality.
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