🚀 go-pugleaf

In article <78433@ut-emx.uucp> david@moe.ece.utexas.edu 
	(david lee) writes:
>Netfolks:
>  I have been using permanent markers in my plotter, writing directly
>onto copper pc boards, trying to circumvent the photo-lithographic steps.

	-For pens I use: Staedtler Lumocolor 313 Permanent pens.
	-For etchant I use: Ammonium Persulphate   (very clean to 
	work with and works well with the pens listed here)
	-For Tin plate I use solution from GC electronics. cat# 22-228-A
	(works great!)
	-For very fine detail I buy Micro Pigma (non water-proof) remove
	the ink filler and replace with one from a steadtler permanant
	(see above). Run the pin dry after removing the filler and before
	adding the filler from the steadtler. You have to cut the very back
	off the steadtler to remove it. Both pens use the same size fillers,
	just flip them around and punch them back into the point.
	The Micro Pigma pin come apart without damage - these pens come in 
	VERY small sizes, the 005 pens tend to clog if you leave the 
	steadtler filler in them for a long time so leave the final
	swap to just before a plot. I have been able to make surface mount 
	at .025 spacing just fine, or for example do traces between a pad 
	without problems!

	- Suggestion for those trying this - do the plot at least twice.

	- Use 0000 grade steel wool and clean the board to a polish
	just moments before the plot - wipe clean with a soft clean
	rag ( *** don't omit these steps *** )

	- Heat the Ammonium persulphate to about 60C, the easy way
	is to mix only what you need just before using - ex: I often
	use 1/4 cup AP and 3/4 cup of hot water (ratio varies, so
	check your labels) - Float the plastic tray in hot water for 
	the etch. 
	* Read the safety instructions, where gloves, use good ventilation *

	- After etch use 0000 grade steal wool and clean the board to a 
	polish just moments before the plating process but wash with clean 
	water to clean.  ( *** don't omit these steps *** ) Using a solvent to
	remove the ink will not remove the oxide that inhibits a good plate 
	so even if you do use solvent use the steel wool _after_ the board
	dries - ex: don't risk the chance of a spark - keep your solvents
	in a safe place, etc...

	(I have made a few dozen boards in this way, so far the results 
	are very very good )

	Good Luck!
	

# Mike Gore, Technical Support, Institute for Computer Research
# Internet: magore@watserv1.waterloo.edu   or   magore@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca
# UUCP:     uunet!math!watserv1!magore
# These ideas/concepts do *not* imply views held by the University of Waterloo.