🚀 go-pugleaf

In article <93007.215927LMACC@CUNYVM.BITNET> Len Alshan <LMACC@CUNYVM.BITNET> writes:
>Would appreciate any information regarding photographing fractal images.
>Am working on a PS/2 Model 80 with 8514A video and have good photo
>equipment. Not interested in professional grade photos or slides.  This is
>purely a for fun project.

I use a Nikon FM 35mm SLR with a 28-70 zoom lens, set on macro.  For film, I
use Kodak Gold 100, since it is readily available, fairly inexpensive, has
good color, and is easily printed.  Exposure times should be farily long to
reduce the effect of screen refresh, but many films are not rated for more
than 0.1 seconds of exposure.  I guess at longer exposures, the color
balances get out of whack.  Anyway, Gold is rated up to 10 seconds of exposure,
which is good enough for me.  My camera's meter seems to work well enough for
me; I usually shoot around 1/2 second and f/8, adjusting each for each shot.

I've found that it is very helpful to find a sympathetic one-hour photo
operator in your area.  Most I've encountered are sick to death of out-of-
focus snapshotss and really appreciate something different (like fractals).
If you find a processer you can work with, then help them help you.  The 
first exposure on every one of my rolls is a color standard.  I use blocks
of red, green, blue, cyan, magenta, yellow, white, and black.  I have the
processer set the balance for this first picture and leave it that way
for the whole roll.  Otherwise, you let the person printing decide what color
your images should be.  You may find that how a picture looks has as much
to do with how it is printed as with how it was shot.  Herein lies an
advantage to shooting slide film.

Hope this is useful,
Kerry Mitchell
mitchell@acodv1.larc.nasa.gov