🚀 go-pugleaf

In article <zing-0804951634400001@lsmf-30.berkeley.edu>,
ez. <zing@cafe.berkeley.edu> wrote:
>I think all that's necessary to cut a cable is some sort of metal
>snips/plier thingy.  You might be more careful - my bike was locked with a

Somebody stole a bike from me once by sticking a piece of re-bar
into the cable and twisting it until the cable broke.  Reasonably
sized standard bike cable, etc.  This was late night downtown SF,
and now, certainly, I know better.

I carry a krypto AND a cable--with its own padlock.  I try to pull 
one cable end through the other end, and then padlock the cable end
to the bike frame.  Does that make sense?  I lock the cable end
to the right-hand side chainstay, on the logic that if the thief
can get the cable, they'll still have to carry the bike since the
padlock will fall down into the cluster.  And heck, maybe it'll
look like too much work & too much potential damage to the frame
to even try getting the padlock off.

I almost suspect the car-jack technique as an urban legend at this
point, ditto the vaguely described "ductile to brittle transition...
thermal energy" method.  Can anybody pipe up and say otherwise?
I've seen a few kryptos that didn't prevent the bike from being
stolen, and they've all been BENT to hell till they came apart.  In
New York city, in fact....

I've got a big copper t-joint on the locking end of the krypto, 
because I've seen other people use 'em, and it seems logical.  I 
notice also the bad bones folks make a custom version that 
accomplishes the same ends.  Any comments on this little add-on,
negative or positive?  As simple as going to the hardware store.
Take the lock in, since the t-joint you need is a bit bigger than
you'd think.

And you know, the bad bones I had didn't fit real well.  A gift--
do they come in sizes or something...?

Final words:  use as many different types of security as you can;
never leave it unlocked; never just lock it to itself (bike #2, for
me); and take it in where you can.

--steve