🚀 go-pugleaf

"Lord-Data" <data@ihug.com.au> wrote in message 
news:41d23c76$0$3610$61c65585@un-2park-reader-02.sydney.pipenetworks.com.au...
>
> "Chas" <umlaut@xxx.com.au> wrote in message 
> news:41cfd840$1@dnews.tpgi.com.au...
>>
>> "sticks" <ksbutler@iinet.net.au> wrote in message
>> news:41ce65cf$0$14450$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
>>> Hi all ,
>>>
>>> My pool pump has been playing up for a day or two , runs for an
>>> hour or so then shuts down , (overheating)
>>> I have taken motor out and the starter capacitor is ruptured i think it 
>>> is
>>> 60uF 450VAC cant read much else , motor is a 4.3Amp  Model LTP750 made 
>>> bY
>>> ONGA pumps .
>>> My questions are
>>>
>>> 1. Should i just change starter capacitor and refit
>>> 2. What could cause overheat problem ( bearings aside)
>>> 3. Do i need exact replacement capacitor
>>>
>>> thanks
>>>
>>    Don't know the particular motor, but it seems possible that the failed
>> capacitor is a "run" capacitor which should be constantly  in circuit 
>> with
>> the second "run" winding  to provide phase shift to that winding.  The 
>> motor
>> would be in essence a pseudo two phase motor.  Failure of the capacitor
>> would explain the overheating.  The voltage rating of 450v also indicates 
>> a
>> "run" cap, but 60 uf seems a bit high.??
>>
>> Failure of a "start" cap would mean the motor would not start, just hum &
>> heat up.  I would expect a "start" cap to have a value of 150-200uf & 
>> 250v.
>
> Hrm .. sorry to hi-jack the thread a bit, but just curious .. If the 
> starter cap is gone, would it cause it to start only sometimes?
> perhaps failing/damaged but still able to work? Sometimes it starts fine, 
> sometimes it does exactly what you said above .. humms for a while, then 
> clicks off from overheating .. then re-tries a few mins later .. If you 
> give it a flick by hand it will always start going .. and sometimes it 
> starts fine, othertimes it jams like this ..
>

That sounds more like a start-cap with a defective centrifugal switch.  When 
the motor shuts off, if the switch doesn't re-close, the next start will 
fail and just 'hummmm'.  Manually spinning it will start up the motor.  Then 
when it shuts off next time, if the switch *does* re-close, it will start 
normally.

Some motors have a sleeve that slides along the shaft to close/open the 
switch.  If that sleeve gets gummed up and doesn't move easily, you get the 
symptoms you describe.

daestrom