🚀 go-pugleaf

In article <C0Cntw.yxn@austin.ibm.com> stand@austin.ibm.com () writes:
>
>The least expensive RC model airplane option I have seen is one based on 
>an article in RCM based on the "Combat Grimlin".  This airplane is made
>out of plastic down spout and a foam wing.  The wing was reinforced using
>strapping filiment tape.  The model is a flying wing type, like a Polestar
>or Simitar.  I have built a couple and they fly exceptionally well and are 
>very forgiving.  They go where you point them and groove.  We have powered them
>with everything from a 15 to 25SF.  Mine have 20s in them. One of fliers at our
>field who is been in training mode for too long was given the controls and he
>flew it for several flights with no problem.  Even though he can barely fly his
>trainer 40.
>
>Based on this, myself and a couple of others started looking at how cheap we could
>go with these.  Would you believe $25 for a kit that includes every thing except
>the tank, hinges and linkages! Of course you need a radio and engine too.  It
>goes together in about an evening, not counting drying time.  Although my
>versions all use the filament tape wing, the kits use a spar, as the savings
>were not that great.  And we pinch pennys, ie, use phillips head 
>screws instead
>of hex to keep the cost down.  Yes, all screws are included. Going as step 
>further
>Nick, the chief designer of our project, built a prototype trainer.  It is 3 
>channel; rudder, elevator and throttle.  I uses no glue, except for 
>joining the 
>wings and the verticle and horizontal stab.   The rudder and elevator are one 
>piece and bolt in the down spout.  It too flys outstanding.  It is very 
>soft on
>the initial application of control, but if you throw in a lot it cranks around
>very responsively.  Just right for a novice.  It's almost indistructable
>as the wing is rubber banded.  The trainer is of conventional design, uses a
>longer section of down spout.  Uses a 15 and flys forever on 4 oz, tank.

Wow! Sounds like a Dox Generix of R/C type operation to me! The airplane
seems to be a C/L Slow Combat plane in spirit if not in the details. Plastic
covered foam does work well.

Someone else might flame you for posting "commercial" information, but I
for one would like to see more (a LOT more) of this. Our hobby (esp. the
smaller disciplines like Control Line) are very dependant on cottage in-
dustries. Unlike local hobby stores these garage operations often give 
you a lot of bang for the buck. 

>To further this effort we are experimenting with different covering materials. 
>My first one, Bird of Prey (because we use it to chase birds), was 
>covered with
>MonoKote; very expensive, took better part of a roll.  Next one is done 
>with high
>gloss latex enamel, then clear polyurethane.  Much better.  Another one of our
>experimenters didn't bother with the clear, no problem, 
>seems to be fuel proof.
>There is yet another that is covered with a checkerboard shelf like material
>found at Wallmart.  EconoKote (sp?) is also used and is better than MonoKote
>directly over foam as it takes less heat.  If you really want to go 
>cheap, use a
>felt tip pin and forget it; just wipe it down after you fly.

Surprise! Latex house paint is fuelproof. 

No, don't fly it uncovered. The oil will eventually soak the airplane.

I would suggest trying some Combat fliers' coverings: FasCal, Seal Lamin
or my 1 mil Mylar (I'll sell you 10 feet for $5, 40 inches wide - you'll 
need 3M 77 or similar to use it).

Ummm... try not to type more than 70 char/line 9-)





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Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
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