🚀 go-pugleaf

< EZ-connectors comments >
>>I prefer to use adjustable clevises on both ends of a pushrod. 
>                                        ^^^^^^^^^

>I assume you use a lock nut on atleast one end to prevent the pushrod
>from lengthening or shortening due to vibration? Not a flame, just wanna
>be sure the neophytes don't get the wrong impression.

Errr.. Wait a minute, think about this a second.  If one end of the
rod rotates in the clevis, then the other one does too.  The rod may
slide one way or the other by rotating, but the length remains the 
same (assuming 2-56 threads...)

Now, this is not to say I 'condone' using un-lock-nutted clevises on
both ends of a rod...!  The pushrod could rotate enough to completely
come out of one clevis.  And, it could advance far enough into one side
to cause binding, and eventually battery run-down, and so forth.

My personal choice, which I use on virtually EVERY pushrod type installation
is Z bends on the servo end, and STEEL clevises, locknutted to prevent
metal-to-metal noise, as well as a piece of fuel tubing over the closed
clevis to prevent it from popping off under load.  For smaller planes
and gliders, I will use nylon clevises, if the horn is also nylon; a 
miniscule amount of weight, and no need for a locknut.

The only place I will use EZ-connectors is for nose-wheel steering
(usually not there, either) and throttle.  These are more adjustment
prone items, and often harder to get at the end opposite the servo.

Several years ago I did use EZ's on my flight surfaces, but my rudder
on a tail-dragger popped the EZ off the servo a couple of times on landing,
and I decided it was CHEAPER, STRONGER, and MORE RELIABLE to use Z-bends.
The available z-bender pliers are really good for this - one of my most
favorite tools, in fact.  :)

  -swb- (Steve Bixby, sbixby@cup.portal.com)