🚀 go-pugleaf

pscotto@MtHolyoke.edu (Peter J. Scotto) writes:


>OK, I realize that airbrushes produce a really great finish,
>but I've got a problem with some of the stuff I've seen.

>When I see models with say, RAF bi-color patterns or modern
>American tri-color patterns, I see alot of this feather edge
>freehand stuff, where one color kind of feathers off into another.

>However, on the actual  aircraft and vehicles I have seen, the
>lines of demarcation between colors seem pretty distinct and should be
>more so on the smaller scale model.  So what's going on here?
>Is this a case of the tool driving the modeller?

>Specifically, I'm working on an A-10 now with a three color
>camouflage pattern (dark green, medium green, and dark grey).
>When I look at the plans, what I see represented are distinct
>patches of color, but when I look at the box, I see this indistinct
>feathery stuff.  My inclination is to mask and use the airbrush or
>use a brush.

>Any opinions or advice on this?

>--Peter Scotto


Argg, I reccongize your problem. RAF in particular have very sharp edges
but not so sharp so one can use Maskol or tape to mask the area. If one
airbrush the edges on free hand will the edges be too soft. One way witch
I use, even if it's a lot of work and not perfect, is to use tape and
add a sewing-thread under the edge of the tape, so the edge is slightly
lifted. That gives a sharp edge, slightly softed. The tricky part is to
add the thread. If anyone have a better suggestion I would appreciate that
a lot.

Goran

In article <1k1hbqINNqp5@slab.mtholyoke.edu> pscotto@MtHolyoke.edu (Peter J. Scotto) writes:
>OK, I realize that airbrushes produce a really great finish,
>but I've got a problem with some of the stuff I've seen.

>When I see models with say, RAF bi-color patterns or modern
>American tri-color patterns, I see alot of this feather edge
>freehand stuff, where one color kind of feathers off into another.

>However, on the actual  aircraft and vehicles I have seen, the
>lines of demarcation between colors seem pretty distinct and should be
>more so on the smaller scale model.  So what's going on here?
>Is this a case of the tool driving the modeller?

You're exactly right!  And there are 2 related problems.

1. If you look real close at the actual aircraft and vehicles, there
   is often a soft demarcation, but not nearly as soft as that often
   painted on models.  The problem is airbrush technique.  In 1/72
   scale, it's almost impossible to paint freehand and get a tight enough
   demarcation line to look accurate.  Even in 1/48 or 1/32, you need
   an a-brush with a nice fine nozzle and considerable skill to get the
   lines tight enough.

   The solution is "soft masking"--laying down tape but lifting the edge
   a millimetre or two, producing a soft line but much tighter than is
   obtainable freehand.  This can take a hell of a long time, especially
   on, say, sand-and-spinach schemes where there are so many little patches
   of color to mask, and you have to make sure all the tape edges stick up
   just the same amount or there will be variation in the line softness.
   Freehand is a lot more fun!

2. Modellers sometimes assume soft demarcation lines where there are none.
   For example on Brit a/c circa WW2, usually the lines between the upper
   camouflage colors are soft, but that between the upper and lower colors
   are hard.  On the other hand, when a/c were built by the US for the 
   British and painted at US factories in Brit camouflage, often the line
   between upper and lower surfaces was painted soft as well. 

August Horvath <augustho@usc.edu>

In article <1k1hbqINNqp5@slab.mtholyoke.edu> pscotto@MtHolyoke.edu (Peter J. Scotto) writes:

>However, on the actual  aircraft and vehicles I have seen, the
>lines of demarcation between colors seem pretty distinct and should be
>more so on the smaller scale model.  So what's going on here?
>Is this a case of the tool driving the modeller?
>
>Specifically, I'm working on an A-10 now with a three color
>camouflage pattern (dark green, medium green, and dark grey).
>When I look at the plans, what I see represented are distinct
>patches of color, but when I look at the box, I see this indistinct
>feathery stuff.  My inclination is to mask and use the airbrush or
>use a brush.

Actually, IMHO, it is a question of an illusion. The wiever knows there
are soft demarcation lines on the real thing - he waits to see them also
in the model. To make things clear, the demarcation lines must be exagger-
ated in the small scales to look realistic: compare with the highlighting
and shading of the miniature figurines. Therefore demarcation lines are
airbrushed on the model to appear as soft, and they do look like ones
on the real thing - although they are grossly out of scale. Sharp edges,
like those obtained with an ordinary brush, just don't create the same
illusion - they don't resemble the real thing.

To reduce the feathery edge, but still leave it to look like brushed, one
good solution is to use mask. I have two solutions: either I use 3M Post-
It patches cut in form (the yellow billets, you know) or ordinary carpenter's
tape with the edges rolled up for about 1-2 mm. To obtain thin line, one should
have VERY dilute paint (I use 1:3 - 1:4) AND high pressure (2-2.5 bar).
Xtracolor enamels and Tamiya acrylics are good for this.

And also, if you want hard edges, just press the mask edge firmly onto the 
model. Also, an airbrush is an enormous timesaver - you'll do the same job
in fifteen minutes you'd be using 2 h with a hairbrush (a pun intended !)
and the coat is even - no flocks, brush marks etc. For a serious modeler
an airbrush is, IMHO, a must.

And, with the T-bolt, the demarcation lines on the real thing are RREALLY
coarse, I'd use an airbrush freehand to paint the blotches.




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